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What build should I do?

  • DFN's 13.5hz IXL build

    Votes: 1 14.3%
  • Ortheum&NeoDan's "easy button" 18" build

    Votes: 4 57.1%
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    Votes: 2 28.6%
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I found two designs that are practical for me but I want to hear what you guys think. I created a poll for easy opinions and welcome feedback. I will be getting my IXL 18.2.2 any day now and will have everything done this coming weekend (26th). I have some leads on amps and now all I need is the final draft of the sub enclosure.

I was thinking either this build used for an IXL 18


Other option being this build seen here and here using a Maelstrom 18" sub.


It should be noted that I'm very practical and that's why I'm not going with a sonotube build as it can't really double as anything. If anyone has any other ideas, please post links to them and why it would be better.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I'm more leaning towards the second one. It's more compact and reminds me of a bigger version of my Velodyne DPS-12. Now all I have to do is pick a colour. Don't know if I'd go with a stain due to the fact it's plywood but we'll see.
 

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One thing I could suggest to plan #2 is to add 45* angles or inverted rounds to each corner to cut down the turbulence generated in those areas. This will add an additional ~0.5 or more to your port output.
 

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You really did not state what you wanted in a sub.
Footprint, output, low end?
I prefer sealed with lots of power and a LT eq.
Power is cheap, and sealed makes an easy build, and an easy integration.
Small and powerful.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I want deep so that's why I chose these. I want to dig as low as possible with the smallest enclosure. That's why I'm leaning towards option #2. I only have a 500 watt system (100X5) so there's no chance of bottoming out with the levels I'm going to have it at. I'm just going to "borrow" the 300 watt plate amp from my Quest. Mike, what does that mean? Lol. Can you show me an example of... inverted rounds and where exactly they would go?

Question about wood. Is there any specific type of wood I should keep an eye out for? Secondly, wood should be avoided. Should I get some fill for it or should I leave it empty?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's really strange. If my memory serves me correctly, it's the QS10 but it looks more like the 1000 one with the silver finish behind the mesh and it has the same legs as the 1000 one. Even stranger is that I looked at the back of the plate amp and it DID indeed say 300 watts. There's no way that's consumption with a class D amp so I'm at a loss until I get home.
 

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I want deep so that's why I chose these. I want to dig as low as possible with the smallest enclosure. That's why I'm leaning towards option #2. I only have a 500 watt system (100X5) so there's no chance of bottoming out with the levels I'm going to have it at. I'm just going to "borrow" the 300 watt plate amp from my Quest. Mike, what does that mean? Lol. Can you show me an example of... inverted rounds and where exactly they would go?

Question about wood. Is there any specific type of wood I should keep an eye out for? Secondly, wood should be avoided. Should I get some fill for it or should I leave it empty?
I honestly don't know the name of them, but it is the opposite of a roundover. Anyway, it would probably be easiest to use 1.5" angled pieces (shaped like a triangle) to go into your corners. For wood I would suggest Birch for the box and MDF for the internals. Using the Birch will keep your weight down.
 

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It's a wood molding called an inside corner round, it goes where the port meets the back wall of the cabinet. As mentioned above, angle pieces work as well. Have a look at Dylan's build, the layout of the port is shown in the first pic.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...cts/20266-7-6-cu-ft-maelstrom-x-18-build.html

As for the Quest amp, it's not what you want. Whether it's the QS10 or the 1000, both amps are listed as 150 watts with a hi-pass filter in the high 30's since the response of those subs only go down to 35 hz.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's the 1000 one but it doesn't cut off at 30hz. I put a 20HZ sine wave through it and it was still shaking about and that's the lowest I could generate with this app. I can't find any birch, at least not at a reasonable price. What trees native to Nova Scotia would be good? I can get 4'X8' of fir plywood for $43.77. It's only finished on one side but that shouldn't matter. Is Fir a good one to use?
 

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A hi-pass filter reduces the output below the cutoff frequency by a certain amount per octave. A second order filter would be 6 db per octave, a third order filter would be 12 db per octave, etc. You are still getting output at 20 hz but at a reduced amount.

Void free plywood is recommended for speaker building because it doesn't have any "hollow spots" in it. I'm not sure if they make void free fir plywood, ask a lumberyard and see what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I will search around some more today. All I could call was Home Depot. Still a bit weary of Kent. People are suggesting that I try to do everything myself but I've never cut a piece of wood without it being for firewood and I don't want the first time being for this beast.

Edit: YES! Someone locally who has their own carpentry business has offered to help out for my 4X12 guitar cab. I am quite estatic with this turnout. Final question (hopefully), foam, insulation, sound dampening. Should there be any or should I focus on EQing it before it gets to the sub? What about a very thin insulation for the length of the port? Is any nessessary?

Second urgent edit: I have to make sure these mount dimensions will work with the Mach5 18" driver.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/its-loud-dude/AVS/26p5x24x37p5/CS1.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/its-loud-dude/AVS/26p5x24x37p5/CS2-1.jpg
 

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Someone locally who has their own carpentry business has offered to help out for my 4X12 guitar cab.
Will he be helping with the sub too?

foam, insulation, sound dampening
Build the sub and see how it sounds first, then take it from there.

Not sure about the the mounting dimensions, it's best you contact Mach 5 and verify them.
 

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One thing I could suggest to plan #2 is to add 45* angles or inverted rounds to each corner to cut down the turbulence generated in those areas. This will add an additional ~0.5 or more to your port output.
This recommendation while true probably isn't necessary in this instance because the size of the port will make port air velocity a non issue but you may as well. I would increase the squareness of the port to give added strength.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Do I go with 3/4" thick?

I have the mountings here from Affordable Drivers.
Outside Diameter: 46.2cm (18 3/16")
Mounting diameter: 42.4cm (16 11/16")
Depth: 24.8cm (9 3/4")

Angled ports scrapped.

The guy will be building it for me. He's really a life saver. The question of where to put speaker wire mounts remains....

Additional thoughts. When I got my velodyne, I had to move my computer because the bass was causing the hard drives to go screwy. What on earth will this thing do to them.....

Saturday update. So hopefully the build shall be started on Monday. Please check out the build topic I will be created in the ported section. I wont be the one doing the work and I don't even know if I will be able to be there for any of it but I will upload pics of the finished product with and without the driver and also video with a light inside the enclosure.
 
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