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Discussion Starter #1
If money was of no object, what do you guys think would be the *best* pair of 10 in subs for music only in a house? It can be sealed, ported, anything, it doesn't matter. I'm not looking to buy any more subs by the way for a lot longer :bigsmile: so you don't have to worry about this.
To narrow down my question, what pair of 10's would have nice, tight bass, and still have decent output? I was just curious so I wanted to see what you guys could come up with...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh, that's true also. How come in WinISD, a port usually models better than a PR'd box (at least for me)? By that I mean, it usually looks like the ported one extends lower in the frequency range, again for me, but I haven't modeled but two or so PR'd boxes.
 

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A pair of folded slot port JL Audio 10w7s

They'd be enough for anything you wanted to do pretty much.

For music you could tune them to get 120+db each
 

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I'd pick one of these for general all around use and SQ. There's been a lot of great 10's (Aura NS10, TC Oem 10, TC1000, TC2000,) but most of them aren't reliably available anymore. These are.

CSS SDX10's
Peerless XLS 10's
Dayton RS10 HO and HF's
HiVi SP10

These below are more for heavy duty straight up subwoofer duties IMHO.


JL 10W7 and 10w6v2
MTX 9510
Fi Q10
SoundSplinter RLI 10 (Don't know if this is available anymore)
 

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I second the sdx10. My ported box sounds great. Sounds good with music and movies. Mine is an 18" cube tuned to ~24 HZ. Front firing sub with 3 2" ports on each side. Yeah kind of weird, but this project started as dual PR and I cut some filler boards to cover the PR holes and the 6 2" ports was the best solution. It sounds so good that I don't even want to rebuild for the more popular 4" to 6" single port. Absolutely no port noise. Just smooth punchy bass. I also think that the side firing ports helps with phase issues, as I get similar output in all areas of the room. No Null or boomy spots.
 

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Play some music or test tones and flip the switch back and forth. You'll be able to tell which way it sounds better. Basically, you want the sub driver going "out" at the same time your main speakers are going "out", and the phase switch lets you toggle back and forth in case your mains are wired the opposite way. It's the same effect as reversing the + and - speaker wires at one end basically.
 
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