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Discussion Starter #1
As far as materials, aren't they the same?
If there were a place for a plate amp, wouldn't that be the same?
This makes the big assumption the box has the correct cubic feet, but most were about 3^3ft that I saw. There are many out there, and some are pretty cheap used.

Is the only difference the necessity for a plate amp hole in the back or perhaps a needed port, if you don't do a sealed box? Thanks.

edit: For example, this,

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-12-single-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-charcoal/6504011.p?id=1218747923938&skuId=6504011

Isn't that the same, minus the amp?
 

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Yes, they are essentially the same as the type of boxes you can get at PE etc, except being mass produced in larger quantities, a bit cheaper. Cut hole for plate amp and you're all set.
There is one exception and that is there is almost always no internal bracing in the car ones, vs the stuff from PE, which can have single>extensive bracing inside.
The absolute necessity for bracing, audibly, sitting mid-field, might be debatable...but it certainly doesn't hurt. YMMV.

cheers,
 

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As far as materials, aren't they the same?
There is no definitive answer to this. The most widely used material is MDF, both in home audio and car audio. Baltic Birch Plywood is also another very well regarded material to use for enclosures.

If there were a place for a plate amp, wouldn't that be the same?
I don't quite understand what you are asking - you can make the cutout for the plate amp wherever you please on an enclosure.

This makes the big assumption the box has the correct cubic feet, but most were about 3^3ft that I saw.
There is no 'one box fits all' type of box. The internal volume (that you are referring to as 'the correct cubic feet') varies with each specific subwoofer/speaker. The correct way to determine this is via modeling in software such as WinISD or Bass Box Pro.

You should avoid looking at those boxes, they are known as 'prefabs' and IMO you should avoid them like the plague. They are usually undersized, poorly built and tuned too high. The single BIGGEST difference between car audio enclosures and home audio enclosures is the tuning frequency, accompanied by the box size. Those boxes you are looking at will be most likely tuned between 35-50Hz. This is too high for a HT application in a home environment.

Are you trying to find a box for a car audio subwoofer that would be appropriate for use in a home environment?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes. I don't have the tools, and I saw lots of cheap MDF boxes on Craigslist. Some are probably junky, but at least the ones in the store were very heavy and felt sturdy.

I don't know how to tell about tuning.
 

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I agree with pav. Those boxes won't lend themselves to a theater environment due the higher tuning. The main reason is the goal is usually SPL and the drivers are built with an fs commonly in the 25-35hz range. This is only one important number but extension below that point is difficult for the driver to achieve. This is why it's important to carefully select driver and enclosure. Maybe a knockdown kit from PE? Do you have a driver yet?
 

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AFAIK also you have more room gain in a car so you can get away with earlier roll off. Also car subs are music only so its optimized for higher freq compared to lower freq home theatre use.
 

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To add to the already good advice given by the others above, you have to remember that a car sub is also using the entire car as part of the enclosure. Its much easier to pressurize a car than it is a theater room.
 
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