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Discussion Starter #1
hi,
if i build a subwoofer that is 100% handmade from making the plate amp, picking a suitable driver and building an enclosure will it be as good as a high end branded subwoofer in the market..
i have a cheap 12' subwoofer but it doesn't deliver tight punchy bass..what causes that?
i see my enclosure is made from mdf,pretty much the same as most of the sub's enclosure.
so i figured the driver and the plate amp might have caused that...
will changing the driver alone makes any difference?

if making a diy subwoofer can be as good as a well known brand and a lot cheaper,im interested.
what should i use for the plate amp and driver and where should i get those things..
and how much is the overall costs?
 

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hi,
if i build a subwoofer that is 100% handmade from making the plate amp, picking a suitable driver and building an enclosure will it be as good as a high end branded subwoofer in the market..
i have a cheap 12' subwoofer but it doesn't deliver tight punchy bass..what causes that?

The subwoofer has to be matched to the size of the cabinet. You cannot just buy a sub and make a cabinet and expect it to work. The mechanical and electrical parameters (the Thiele/Small parameters) determines what size the cabinet should be, whether it should be sealed or ported. Also, the displacement of the driver, amplifier and port (if used) must be taken into consideration.

i see my enclosure is made from mdf,pretty much the same as most of the sub's enclosure.
so i figured the driver and the plate amp might have caused that...
will changing the driver alone makes any difference?

Changing the driver will make a difference, but until you take the T/S parameters into consideration, the end result could be better or it could easily be worse than what you have now...

if making a diy subwoofer can be as good as a well known brand and a lot cheaper,im interested.
what should i use for the plate amp and driver and where should i get those things..
and how much is the overall costs?

In almost all cases, a DIY subwoofer will exceed the performance of a commercially build subwoofer at that same target price . However, you will probably not have the same quality in construction as a manufactured sub (unless you are a professional cabinet maker). The Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 12" subwoofer and Dayton Audio HPSA-500 watt sub amplifier is an excellent combination. You can probably get both for $400+shipping from Parts Express or Amazon. For about $100 more, you can get the RSS390HO-4 15" subwoofer and the Dayton HPSA-1000 watt amplifier. All you would need is someone would can pre-cut a 0.75" MDF panel for you in the proper size.

For the aforementioned subs, the proper size for the cabinets would roughly be about 18 or 19" cube for a sealed design (the easiest shape to build). A ported design would be roughly 25-50% larger and the port shape and size must be designed to match with the driver/cabinet size .

I built the 12" combination and am very pleased with the results. The sealed design gives you (IMHO) a tighter bass response than ported designs. The 18" driver will give you lower bass extension but you will have to deal with the larger cabinet in a room. The finished result will easily weigh 70-100 lbs depending on construction.

...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thank u very much...i never knew about port before..i thought subwoofer must always have port..
if im buying kit for the plate amp...will it reduce the cost..?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
btw, dayton is new to me, i just did a research about this brand after your recommendation.
looking at its product in the website, i was pretty amazed by the ready made subwoofer...
it will cost me cheaper..for u guys that have experience, could u tell me about the performance and how to determine great subwoofer...i also went through all different kind of plate amp in the website..for a beginner like me, could u all help me choose..
and is there any other brand that sell good plate amp for subwoofer...
 

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The correct plate amplifier is going to depend on what subwoofer driver you will buy. How much money you are willing to spend will determine what options you have for a suwoofer and an amplifier. What is your budget? What are you going to use the subwoofer for, music, home theater, or both?
 

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Generally, the Dayton Reference HO speakers (more for home theater use) need more power... The 12 and 15 sub will match with the 500- or 1000-watt amp pretty well, depending on how loud you want your bass. The Reference HF (designed more for music) 12 and 15 will go pretty good with the 500-watt amp, the 12 will also work well with the 250-watt amp, but not as loud.

The 12 HF driver works well in a 18-19 cube, the 15 in a 21 cube. The HO drivers are designed for smaller cabinets but you lose some deep bass compared to the HF drivers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
im planning to use it for both...music and movies..
but for movies, im quite satisfied with my current subwoofer..
it doesnt go well for music..i really dont have a fix budget yet, but as this will be for long term use and i cant really test the sub, i need to do it right..generally i want the best for cheapest possible..it must be worth it than buying a ready made commercial subwoofer sold in the market..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks mike..
wow there are too many varieties and combination...
very excited to try it out, but have to do quite a bit of research...
 

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Pretty much any subwoofer in existence can sound boomy and bloated if stuck in the wrong position in the wrong room. Ported, sealed, whatever it doesn't really matter. A good design is a good place to start but even a good design can excite a particular room mode and end up sounding super boomy and bloated. Proper subwoofer placement and equalization are the keys to great sounding bass IMHO.
 
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