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Discussion Starter #1

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Personally I find it better to dial back a bigger more power sub then to push a smaller sub to its limits.

A 12" is certainly not too big.
 

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Personally I find it better to dial back a bigger more power sub then to push a smaller sub to its limits.

A 12" is certainly not too big.
I agree with this for the most part.

On that note though, a quality 10" sub could sound better than a lower quality 12" sub

i wouldn't even bother with an 8" sub
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Out of a 1-10 what would you rate the subs I have picked out in this post?
What makes a quality sub? (I know part of it is what sounds good to the person)

Like for example could I take the dayton and replace the speaker with a better quality speaker and this would make a better sub?
 

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What are you using it for: Home theater or music? The Dayton SUB-120 HT is what I'd get and they are on sale right now for $139.
 

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It is always better to have a more powerful sub as it can be pushed harder if required and it will have more headroom over a lesser sub, you can always dial back the power but knowing you have it if needed :T
 

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Good advice given. A good sub will cover down to 20hz, or very close to it with a near flat response, in-room. Typically that means that it will either be a larger volume ported sub, eg svs or hsu size, or a powerful, eq'd sealed design. That said, a quality 10" with a larger cabinet may do better at covering that range than a 12" in an equally sized cabinet, so that it something to consider since it is, after all only a 10x10 room. I put a nice 10" driver in a fairly large sonotube and it digs pretty deep, with good authority in a 12x16xvaulted ceiling room, even with double carpet(project/office room) and other stuff absorbing sound.
 

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What's your budget? If < $300, I just auditioned a new sub on the block... the Lava LSP12 (www.lavasubs.com). You can get 15% by calling them.

If you can swing it, I personally like the SVS PB12-NSD, although I have not had the pleasure of auditioning them side-by-side.

doug.
 

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I would recommend getting the Dayton Titanic MK III from parts express since they have it on sale for $119 but I'd hurry cause the sale ends on the 18th. As for the enclosure and amplifier I'd just go to home depot and get one 4x8 sheet (or just two 2x4 sheets depending on the box size) of 3/4 MDF for about $28 and then getting a 8ft long piece of 3" thin walled pvc pipe for about $7 and using 2 3 inch aeroports, you can double baffle the box and flare the MDF with a 1" round over which will be a really nice flare. As for the recommended box size and tuning I would shoot for about 2-2.25 cubic ft net tuned to 20-22 hz and lastly for the amplifier(if you already have one then thats great but I am just recommending you one in case you do not) I would recommend the BASH Series 500 watt plate amplifier for $169 from parts express.

That comes out to a total cost of about: $323 which is cheaper and better than the dayton titanic kit that parts express has to offer. I think you would really love the output of this 10" sub.
 

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I would really like to know what you pick and how you like it. Hopefully you give us an honest review after the setup. I'll look in later. Good Luck.

PoTee
 

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When your picking out a sub , especially for a small room, you need to be more concerned with extension than volume. Most any sub will give you plenty of volume for a 10X10 room, but a larger sub will probably give you greater extension. You can always turn down the volume, but you can't turn up the extension.
 

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When your picking out a sub , especially for a small room, you need to be more concerned with extension than volume. Most any sub will give you plenty of volume for a 10X10 room, but a larger sub will probably give you greater extension. You can always turn down the volume, but you can't turn up the extension.
Yup. It would save him money in the long run if he did that because if he ever moved his home theater system into a larger room this would come in handy rather than spending money on a new sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
spencerearl1996:
Thanks for the advise. Unfortunately I do not know how to design the box. I do have access to a table saw and router to build it with. I know that Dayton Titanic MK III is a nice sounding speaker. With this advise I may go with Dayton T1003K 10" Titanic Mk III Subwoofer Kit.
Would I miss the 500W Bash amp. Or do you feel 240W would be enough?
I am feeling 240W is week.
But I have not had a powered sub before so I don't really know.
 

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If the sub is a sealed design then more power is ideal but if the sub is ported then it will not require massive amounts, so 240watts maybe OK if ported.

Have a good look and read in our DIY section as it may help quite a bit with many experienced people who can advise best.

DIY Section
 

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I just purchased a Velodyne Minivee 10 refurbished unit from OneCall for $600. I have about the same size room and I wanted to have small, sealed, powerful, simple sub for center placement inbetween two bookshelf speakers. I plan on doing some cabinet damping and EQ'ing (I use the computer as the source) to flatten the reponse. I can't play back at high volumes without irking people, so I want a fairly small sub.
I do not have the unit yet so I cannot give my impressions, but I think once I get to adjust the EQ correctly it should be accurate and decent sounding at lower volume levels.
I think the retail price on the Minivee line is pretty excessive, but OneCall is a factory authorized by Velodyne for some of their products, so a reburished unit fit the bill.



I am going to add some posts so I can post my own threads, I found that you can't delete posts....
Once again, I apologize for the thread hijacking, I chose this one randomly.
 
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