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Or you can use the same as above but instead of 2 sheets you can omit that for 1 1/2" sheet of quite rock which is equal to 8 1/2" sheets of standard drywall and 12" of Safe and Sound.
 

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I would quadruple check those specs. No way is 1.5" QuietRock going to have that kind of performance - not to mention that it's outrageously expensive for the 1.5" and you'll need at least 3 guys to wrangle it around.

It's not a bad product, don't get me wrong, but the DD and GG is WAY less expensive and will give you 95% of the performance.
 

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I agree that it is expensive but it is only 1/2" thick not 1 1/2" it weights the same as a regular 1/2" sheet it is 2 1/4" sheet laminated together with a product similar to green glue we use it all the time so does Paradigm at there lab and also Mike Holmes he stated the specs on his show awhile ago. In our area we supply install tape mud prime and paint for $285.00 a sheet and we are told that we are on average $20-30 less a sheet then most of the other contractors.
 

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Sorry. Misread your post and thought you were referring to the 1.5".

I'll still stick with the 2 layers of 1/2" and green glue for better performance at the cost of 1/2" of space. I'm not saying it's not a good product at all. Looking at the quiet rock performance data for the 1/2", they show at TL of 17 at 100Hz, 27 at 125, and 33 at 160. GG plus 2 layers 1/2" shows 22 at 100Hz, 30 at 125Hz, and 35 at 160hz. GG also shows 21 at 80hz.

Overall STC
GG assembly - 54
QR assembly - 49

Keep in mind that STC is an average and not an end all. Where the GG assembly shines is at the low end where it's more difficult to stop sound. That's a function of the additional mass of 2 layers of 1/2" vs 2 layers of 1/4".

That said, even at higher frequencies, the GG assembly is superior. At 5kHz - the GG assembly has a TL of 70, the QR assembly has a TL of 58.

All of these data points come directly from the respective companies' test result documentation from their own web sites.


For your own perusal

http://www.greengluecompany.com/images/transmissionLossTests/OL05-0823_Report.pdf

http://www.quietrock.com/documentation/func-startdown/94/
 

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bpape are you located in the US or Canada I am in Canada I can not get green glue here I called a few places that are suppose to carry it but they told me it is very hard to get here for some reason it would be alot more cost effective like you stated.
 

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Contact Ted at The Soundproofing Store. He has good pricing and I know he ships to Canada at a reasonable price.

If you can get the QuietRock locally, I understand the situation certainly. Just pointing out the facts in specs and performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
You can cut the spacing a little. The rockwool between drywall layers isn't going to do much at all. Green Glue would be better by a long shot.

Assuming Green Glue.

Wall
1/2" space
2x4 stud(3.5")
2 layers 1/2" drywall

Total space - 5". That leaves you only using 6" total with 1" mineral wool inside the room or 7" total with 2" inside the room.

Bryan
So what you are saying is instead of putting the rockwool on the existing wall just start off with space then studwall, then rockwool last with fabric covering?

The only problem is I think I need a solid wall to put my fixed pj screen onto?

Would it be just as effective in my room to have the rockwool going on the wall all around the outside of the screen and put in corner bass traps?

Kind Regards
Marty
 

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What I'm saying is build a standard stud wall, insulate it with regular fluffy insulation, and drywall the surface. Then mount the screen on that wall. Cover the remaining wall with mineral wool or fiberglass (higher density) and cover with black cloth.

That will give you the absorption you require, the isolation you want, and the 2" absorption with cloth will actually 'recess' the screen back a bit forming a nice looking shadow box effect.

You'll still need the corner absorption.


Bryan
 

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Not at all. You have concrete and the double drywall - 2 leaves of mass.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
What I'm saying is build a standard stud wall, insulate it with regular fluffy insulation, and drywall the surface. Then mount the screen on that wall. Cover the remaining wall with mineral wool or fiberglass (higher density) and cover with black cloth.

That will give you the absorption you require, the isolation you want, and the 2" absorption with cloth will actually 'recess' the screen back a bit forming a nice looking shadow box effect.

You'll still need the corner absorption.


Bryan

OK Thanks Bryan :T

I will have to get a builder to do this for me as It is completely out of my league, I struggle to put a shelf up:R

I will first of all have a go at making 3 (2x4) sound absorbers for the bare wall opposite the wall covered in blackout curtains.

Then I will buy some diffusers for the rear wall as these are probably out of my league to make myself?

I am hoping after I do this the slap echo should be gone?

Then finally the corner traps and the stud wall.

Bryan at the start of this thread you said that my REW response needed improvement, did you mean just the upper frequencies like 100hz and above or the sub response aswell? I dread the thought of having to move the pb13u again :yikes: So if there will be hardly any noticeable difference in the remaining improvements I can squeeze out of the sub then I would rather just leave that be and focus on the upper range?

Thanks for your help

Kind Regards
Marty
 

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Up to you. Seating position and sub position can do a lot to change frequency response.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Up to you. Seating position and sub position can do a lot to change frequency response.

Bryan
What I mean is looking at the subs response I got, which looked fairly good to me (I think it was within the +5/-5 range pretty much), is can this subs response be noticeably improved on? It sounds nicely balanced to my ears, not too boomy, powerful when needed so to go back and start moving everything again I would rather be sure that I will actually be able to sit down and hear the difference between this response and the potentially flatter response I may be able to achieve? Or will it now be just more peace of mind to see that flatter line?

Kind Regards
Marty
 

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If you're happy with the results as is, then leave it. That's all that really matters. Yes - you can spend a lot of time to get a little flatter response but if you're good pre-treatment with the response, then you're way ahead of the curve.

Bryan
 

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1 1/2" sheet of quite rock which is equal to 8 1/2" sheets of standard drywall
No data to support their matketing sound bite.

It all boils down to mass and how much damping material is used. You'll find that any low-mass panel will not get you much isolation. Also lower cost pre-damped panels simply have less damping compound.

You'll find that a much better wall can be obtained just as Bryan stated. Standard (heavy) 5/8" drywall and a field application of a damping compound. Less expensive, less waste and better.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
No data to support their matketing sound bite.

It all boils down to mass and how much damping material is used. You'll find that any low-mass panel will not get you much isolation. Also lower cost pre-damped panels simply have less damping compound.

You'll find that a much better wall can be obtained just as Bryan stated. Standard (heavy) 5/8" drywall and a field application of a damping compound. Less expensive, less waste and better.
I know I will probably sound thick here but what is the difference between the material used to make a stud wall and the drywall panels? I thought the the drywall panels were what makes up the stud wall?

Also do you ship green glue to the uk? How much would I need to do this project, the main wall will be 12ft 11inch by 8ft 5inch

Kind Regards
Marty
 

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I know I will probably sound thick here but what is the difference between the material used to make a stud wall and the drywall panels? I thought the the drywall panels were what makes up the stud wall?

Also do you ship green glue to the uk? How much would I need to do this project, the main wall will be 12ft 11inch by 8ft 5inch

Kind Regards
Marty
That would be the studs - a.k.a. dimensional lumber, a.k.a. 2x4s, 2x6s, etc. The drywall just covers up the studs.

But reading my answer, I must have misunderstood your question as stated. :sweat:
 
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