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Before getting into this, I want to acknowledge that Mike P seems to be very active helping us rookies so Thank You!


I don't understand what the TS parameters mean when looking for a sub so I will ask you experts.
$500 range single or dual, I don't mind spending in the upper range if it is worth the extra $ but I don't want to buy a name or hype.
I haven't opened the wall but it should be the same as the one that is on the opposite side which I have opened up to mount all my components in. This will be flush with the wall with 6.5' of space from the paralell wall firing 90* from the mains and slightly to the rear. I have other threads on this here. My previous measurement stopped at 8' due to plywood stock and not knowing a good way to make the box taller, my thought would be to glue a section inside overlapping the seam by a couple feet and screwing it together. If this would work I can do 10.5' tall, 25.5" wide and 17.25" deep external measurements which should net me 28cf. I can squeak out a lttle more room but it would be more work building the box, my depth can increase 5" or so for 4' to 5'.

So with this in mind which woofer or woofer's would you choose for the best HT experience using a EP2500. Would using two less expensive speakers be better than the best single with the above size limitations figuring the $ to be $425 range to make uo for more materials. I have read a 6db gain for the second but does that account for getting half of the amp power.
Sorry for all the various posts but I only want to do this once and do it right.
 

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No real cut sheet to speak of, as most DIY subs of the larger variety are custom designs. There are a handful of popular designs out there, namely the ~260 liter RL-p15, ~320 liter TC2k, and ~650 liter Avalanche or FiCar 18, but since you have 28 cubes to work with, your best bet is to choose the dimensions of you liking.

Things to keep in mind are that the port openings need clearance from all obstructions equal to port diameter as a minimum - the more clearance the better. Also, you'll want to leave some clearance behind the driver as well.....no real rule, but again, the more the better. Other than that, it's up to you.
 

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So if I need a 36" long 8" port, can I split that into 2 18" ports? 3? Could I change tuning by stuffing port holes? I prefer a taller box with the port and sub facing the audience. Thanks.
 

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Unfortunately it doesn't work that way. One 8" diameter port that is 36" long would be the equivalent - tuning wise - to two 8" diameter ports that are each 72" long. You can mount the port at an angle if that helps positioning it taking into account the length.
 
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