I'd suggest you consider a higher tune. I'm pretty sure the tempest likes a higher tune for that box size. Without the hi pass filter you should have a flat response.
Wine Barrel Sub Build
Hi guys,
I'm finally getting around to building this puppy. I've got two weeks off to build it starting next week. :T The original discussion thread was here. Most of that thread is irrelavent now since I'm using the Tempest-X2 which wasn't out at the time. I've purchased and received the OAudio 500w amp, a Tempest-X2 and a 228 litre wine barrel. The wine barrel and sub together already weigh about 65kg! At least its easy to roll around. The barrel is 90cm high, 60cm diameter top and bottom and 68cm diameter in the middle.
I plan on down firing the sub similiar to a sonosub build. But if I go ported I will have the ports out the side at the top, so the better half can put something on top of it. (If it will stay on there! :devil
I think I will leave the plate amp in a separate enclosure to keep things simpler.
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Above is the design I am aiming for. This is modelled with 500w (really should be 450w), a 4th order 80hz HPF and a 14hz subsonic filter for the ported box. This will require modifying the OAudio amp and the use of PVC elbows to get the required 80cm length for the ports. Port air speed is around 20m/s with two 4" ports and excursion is kept in check. I'm hoping some room gain should fill in the bottom end. Can anyone see any problems with this design, or has any suggestions?
I've cut out one of the ends of the wine barrel with a jigsaw to form the baffle for the sub. The wood is an inch thick for the end caps and the staves (sides). I then proceeded to use a flap sander on an angle grinder to smooth the inside surface of the barrel and to get rid of some of the wine smell. Messy is an understatement! Do this outside folks as this is dusty! If anyone wants to do this with the bigger 330litre wine barrels I don't think you would be able to reach inside to the other end. You would probably need to take the straps off one end and I've heard that its hard to get them back together.
I've given the sub a dry run. The good news is that the metal straps don't rattle at all.
Both end caps need re-enforcing since they are made from multiple strips of wood squeezed tightly together. In particular the baffle end is weaker since it has a gigantic whole in it, but it is still surprisingly strong. I plan on gluing and probably screwing some 16mm MDF directly to the outside of the baffle to beef it up. At moment I'm thinking a cross hatch of MDF braces on the inside of the barrel should be enough for the other end.
Since the barrel is made from oak the end caps resonate pretty bad, however dropping an old blanket in the bottom fixed this up nicely. I bet I looked pretty stupid with my head in the wine barrel and rapping on the side of it! :rofl:
I have some left over bathroom waterproofing membrane to seal the inside and handle the oak movement when the humidity changes etc. I've painted some of the stuff onto the offcuts of oak as a test. WOW that stuff provides great damping. In fact it works great as a good glue and might work well as the middle layer in a constrained layer damping system, but I think that might be overkill here.
Pictures will follow when I get some photos off my camera tonight.
I'm finally getting around to building this puppy. I've got two weeks off to build it starting next week. :T The original discussion thread was here. Most of that thread is irrelavent now since I'm using the Tempest-X2 which wasn't out at the time. I've purchased and received the OAudio 500w amp, a Tempest-X2 and a 228 litre wine barrel. The wine barrel and sub together already weigh about 65kg! At least its easy to roll around. The barrel is 90cm high, 60cm diameter top and bottom and 68cm diameter in the middle.
I plan on down firing the sub similiar to a sonosub build. But if I go ported I will have the ports out the side at the top, so the better half can put something on top of it. (If it will stay on there! :devil
I think I will leave the plate amp in a separate enclosure to keep things simpler.
Above is the design I am aiming for. This is modelled with 500w (really should be 450w), a 4th order 80hz HPF and a 14hz subsonic filter for the ported box. This will require modifying the OAudio amp and the use of PVC elbows to get the required 80cm length for the ports. Port air speed is around 20m/s with two 4" ports and excursion is kept in check. I'm hoping some room gain should fill in the bottom end. Can anyone see any problems with this design, or has any suggestions?
I've cut out one of the ends of the wine barrel with a jigsaw to form the baffle for the sub. The wood is an inch thick for the end caps and the staves (sides). I then proceeded to use a flap sander on an angle grinder to smooth the inside surface of the barrel and to get rid of some of the wine smell. Messy is an understatement! Do this outside folks as this is dusty! If anyone wants to do this with the bigger 330litre wine barrels I don't think you would be able to reach inside to the other end. You would probably need to take the straps off one end and I've heard that its hard to get them back together.
I've given the sub a dry run. The good news is that the metal straps don't rattle at all.
Both end caps need re-enforcing since they are made from multiple strips of wood squeezed tightly together. In particular the baffle end is weaker since it has a gigantic whole in it, but it is still surprisingly strong. I plan on gluing and probably screwing some 16mm MDF directly to the outside of the baffle to beef it up. At moment I'm thinking a cross hatch of MDF braces on the inside of the barrel should be enough for the other end.
Since the barrel is made from oak the end caps resonate pretty bad, however dropping an old blanket in the bottom fixed this up nicely. I bet I looked pretty stupid with my head in the wine barrel and rapping on the side of it! :rofl:
I have some left over bathroom waterproofing membrane to seal the inside and handle the oak movement when the humidity changes etc. I've painted some of the stuff onto the offcuts of oak as a test. WOW that stuff provides great damping. In fact it works great as a good glue and might work well as the middle layer in a constrained layer damping system, but I think that might be overkill here.
Pictures will follow when I get some photos off my camera tonight.
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
Can't wait for the pics and review on this one
6
Pictures as promised so far. :R
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One end of the wine barrel cut with a jigsaw to form the baffle.
![]()
During initial hose out to get rid of the bulk of the wine sediment and residue. Smells so good!
![]()
Sanding the inside of the barrel to get rid of more of the wine residue and provide a better surface for the adhesion of the waterproofing membrane. Look at all of the dust.
![]()
Hosing out all the sanded material. The baffle should provide a glimpse of the natural color of the wood and final finish.
![]()
The sanded internal surface after drying.
![]()
Initial dry run of the sub. As previously mentioned this end will face the floor and some MDF will be glued on as the outside face of the baffle. It sounded better than my current sub on music even with the plug hole open and the sub just resting in the barrel! :bigsmile:
More to come later but most of the progress will be made next week.
One end of the wine barrel cut with a jigsaw to form the baffle.
During initial hose out to get rid of the bulk of the wine sediment and residue. Smells so good!
Sanding the inside of the barrel to get rid of more of the wine residue and provide a better surface for the adhesion of the waterproofing membrane. Look at all of the dust.
Hosing out all the sanded material. The baffle should provide a glimpse of the natural color of the wood and final finish.
The sanded internal surface after drying.
Initial dry run of the sub. As previously mentioned this end will face the floor and some MDF will be glued on as the outside face of the baffle. It sounded better than my current sub on music even with the plug hole open and the sub just resting in the barrel! :bigsmile:
More to come later but most of the progress will be made next week.
Plug hole? I thought that was an open port
you should have a contest for a sub-witty wine estate name to put on the side.
you should have a contest for a sub-witty wine estate name to put on the side.
4
Steven, the wine barrel is from http://www.bargainbarrel.com.au/ whom are based in South Brisbane, Australia. Basically they get the wine barrels from the wineries after the bulk of the oak flavour has been leached out from the wine, usually after a few batches go though them. The barrel was AUD$130, which is pretty cheap I think. The bigger 330L barrels are only $20 more. I'm sure there would be equivalent places overseas as well. Anyone want to make a wine barrel bar table with built-in sub? Only problem is it will shake the fizz out of your beer! :R
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In case anyone else wants to know how to waterproof a hardwood enclosure (or a bathroom :whistling you paint undertile waterproofing membrane (like this) onto the surface. You need to prepare the joins with a good bead of silicon, then paint some waterproofing membrane on then put some re-enforcing fabric onto the joint while it is still wet, then paint some more waterproofing membrane onto that. A few coats over the whole surface is needed after that. The membrane won't stick to the silicon and will therefore slide across the joint without cracking.
![]()
The undertile waterproofing is interesting stuff, I performed a quick test of its adhesion properties compared to wood glue. If it is painted/rolled on (<5mm) it sets fully and adheres to wood and fibre-cement cladding well and could prove useful as the middle damping layer in a constrained layer wall system. If applied thicker, it doesn't seem to set fully which means it stays viscous and probably an even better damper but it won't work so great as an adhesive. I'll have to try this out later during another project. Even just applied onto the wood surface it seems to damp wood nicely.
![]()
As you can see the MDF comes off second best with either the waterproofing membrane (blue stuff) or the wood glue. I had to bash and pry them both off with a hammer. :devil: The cured waterproofing membrane has a similar consistency to bluetak except that it slowly returns to its original form after deformation. I'm impressed with the stuff and it is quite cheap and seems useful in DIY speakers.
![]()
This is a shot of the thickness of the oak ends. The side walls (staves) are of a similiar thickness maybe a little less.
More progress next week I promise... :innocent:
In case anyone else wants to know how to waterproof a hardwood enclosure (or a bathroom :whistling
you paint undertile waterproofing membrane (like this) onto the surface. You need to prepare the joins with a good bead of silicon, then paint some waterproofing membrane on then put some re-enforcing fabric onto the joint while it is still wet, then paint some more waterproofing membrane onto that. A few coats over the whole surface is needed after that. The membrane won't stick to the silicon and will therefore slide across the joint without cracking. 
The undertile waterproofing is interesting stuff, I performed a quick test of its adhesion properties compared to wood glue. If it is painted/rolled on (<5mm) it sets fully and adheres to wood and fibre-cement cladding well and could prove useful as the middle damping layer in a constrained layer wall system. If applied thicker, it doesn't seem to set fully which means it stays viscous and probably an even better damper but it won't work so great as an adhesive. I'll have to try this out later during another project. Even just applied onto the wood surface it seems to damp wood nicely.
As you can see the MDF comes off second best with either the waterproofing membrane (blue stuff) or the wood glue. I had to bash and pry them both off with a hammer. :devil: The cured waterproofing membrane has a similar consistency to bluetak except that it slowly returns to its original form after deformation. I'm impressed with the stuff and it is quite cheap and seems useful in DIY speakers.
This is a shot of the thickness of the oak ends. The side walls (staves) are of a similiar thickness maybe a little less.
More progress next week I promise... :innocent:
I plan on finishing it similarly to my deck, with some left over decking finish which has a bit of a light reddish stain to it.
In case anyone cares, the process will be:
In case anyone cares, the process will be:
- Lightly sand
- Clean with Napisan (High in sodium percarbonate so its a cheap deck cleaner replacement :spend
- Treat with oxalic acid
- Apply a few coats of decking finish
4
More progress and photos...
![]()
16mm MDF cut with a jigsaw to fit the end of the barrel. This was actually a pain in the neck as the wine barrel end is not circular. So after half an hour of eyeballing and sanding it fits in quite nicely. :sweat: Next step was cutting a hole in the MDF (smaller than needed for the sub) so I could get my hand in and stencil the oak baffle cutout onto the MDF. This was then cut out and lightly sanded. I'm thinking a 4cm thick baffle is sufficient, or should I brace it a little more from the inside?
![]()
![]()
Two layers of flexible silicon was then smoothed into both the bottom and top internal joins, in preparation for the waterproofing membrane.
![]()
This is a shot after gluing the MDF onto the barrel with a just a few clamps... :sarcastic:
Next step is probably waterproofing the inside or bracing the other end of the barrel. I'm undecided if I should brace after the waterproofing or waterproof after bracing. Any thoughts? Also what would be the most effective way to brace the other end of the barrel? Cross hatch of MDF running perpendicular to the oak grain? Dowel from the sides of the barrel down to the end of barrel? Or just gluing MDF flat onto the oak? (Similar to the one I just glued.) :dontknow:
16mm MDF cut with a jigsaw to fit the end of the barrel. This was actually a pain in the neck as the wine barrel end is not circular. So after half an hour of eyeballing and sanding it fits in quite nicely. :sweat: Next step was cutting a hole in the MDF (smaller than needed for the sub) so I could get my hand in and stencil the oak baffle cutout onto the MDF. This was then cut out and lightly sanded. I'm thinking a 4cm thick baffle is sufficient, or should I brace it a little more from the inside?
Two layers of flexible silicon was then smoothed into both the bottom and top internal joins, in preparation for the waterproofing membrane.
This is a shot after gluing the MDF onto the barrel with a just a few clamps... :sarcastic:
Next step is probably waterproofing the inside or bracing the other end of the barrel. I'm undecided if I should brace after the waterproofing or waterproof after bracing. Any thoughts? Also what would be the most effective way to brace the other end of the barrel? Cross hatch of MDF running perpendicular to the oak grain? Dowel from the sides of the barrel down to the end of barrel? Or just gluing MDF flat onto the oak? (Similar to the one I just glued.) :dontknow:
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
