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Hello everyone on the Home Theater Shack Forum. This is my first post, and I have a big problem w/my Sony CRT that I will explain in detail. I was invited to this Forum and w/the help of Icaillo, I'm hoping to get this problem correctly fixed and document this DIY Repair for others to use. Apparently, this is a common problem w/the Sony CRT's as this failure has been noted many times on other Forums. I want to save my big Sony Tube from the landfill, and hopefully we'll help others do the same.
 

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Re: DIY Repair For Sony CRT That Won't Power On & The Standby Lights Blink...

I will start off by stating that I a total noob at TV repair work, or any other electronics repair work for that matter. I have been doing a lot of reading of my TV problem, and am very willing to give a try. If I can do it, then I figure anybody can. If some of my questions, etc. seem like common knowledge to more experienced DIY'ers, please keep in mind that this is my first DIY repair and I want to be careful.
 

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We try to keep the forums organized so that people can find what they are looking for so I moved this here to the Sony forum. As suggested above, a model number is a good start. I have been trying to get around to doing a thread on the now infamous MCZ3001D IC repairs that are needed on these and other Sony sets very often, and cajieboy has agreed to post the details of his experience to help out. Lots of folks are doing these repairs themselves and there is a lot of both good and bad info out there about it. As per our goals here, we will summarize the important info and make sure that it is easy to find, concise, and correct, and not buried in hundreds of pages of individuals seaching for the same info. The details of cajie's repair will be the basis for working up a sticky. Thanks.
 

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My Sony is the KV-40XBR800 CRT HDTV. This is the biggest Tube that Sony ever produced, and weighs in at about 300lbs. Generally, you park this Baby Huey in the corner and leave it there. I'll ask a friend to come over to help pull out the TV to facilitate the repair.

I purchased this 40XBR at Circuit City in late December 2002, for $3000. The optional $500 Sony Stand was thrown into the deal. An expensive 5-Year CC Extended Warranty was also purchase. On the same day, I also purchased a slew of their best Monster Cables (didn't know better at the time), a Sony DVP-NS715P Progressive DVD Player, and a Sony Remote Commander RM-AV3000 w/lcd touchscreen.

This TV has been a solid performer w/excellent PQ. The 40XBR was Sony's flagship model at that time, and had all the bells & whistles that Sony could put into it. About three years into ownership, the TV developed the dreaded "greenies". I enacted my EW, and to my big surprise the TV was totally fixed. Nothing else has happened since that time. I take care of my electronic gear and the 40XBR looks almost brand new as the day I bought it.
 

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Earlier last week as my wife and I were watching a movie on the 40XBR we heard a little "pop" noise, and the pic slightly shifted and immediately returned to normal. We looked at each other and said "what was that?". We continued watching our movie, and later I watched the late night news before turning off the TV. Next morning, the TV would not power on, and there was this sequence of 6 or 7 red Led blinking lights. I tried a few more unsucessful attempts, then unplugged the TV from the surge protector for about and hour. Still nothing happened. I repeated this process several times throughout the day but no luck.

By coincidence, a few weeks before, I had been reading about this very same problem on another Forum. It intrigued me because the Sony models were similar and the frequency of this failure was amazing. I even bragged on my TV a little, and hoped it did not happen to me. Well, knock on wood my friends, this failure has bitten my beloved Tube as well.

I immediately & frantically got back on the internet and re-read the threads, and emailed Icaillo. Hopefully w/his help, I'll be able to report a fix. I'm in the process of gathering the parts and tools needed for this repair, and will list them. The tools seem to be harder for me than the parts because being such a noob I did not own anything needed to do the work. I hope to document everything properly, and will later add pics.

BTW, after giving the TV a long 30hr rest unplugged, we plugged it back in & low and behold the thing came back on in all its glory. I had read that this might happen, but of course the TV is still not fixed. This happened Thursday night just before the BCS Championship Game and being afraid we have NOT turned off this TV since. Right now I have the Giants vs Eagles Game on. Icaillo, will this hurt my TV??!
 

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It will not hurt your set, other than the aging on the CRT from running it extra hours.

This sounds like the classic IC failures. They are often intermittent. The ICs are IC6501 and IC8001, IIRC, on the D board. This is the board to the left when looking from the back of the set, with the high voltage transformer with the red lead coming out of it. The ICs are type MCZ3001D, and are replaced with the MCZ3001DB. The best way to get them is under the Hitachi part number CP08451U. They are identical to the part from Sony, only much less expensive. You can get them from Hitachi distributors such as TriTronics or Vance Baldwin or Andrews.
 

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Sorry for the delay. I've been out of town, and upon return we've had guests visiting from out of state. The situation is a bit hectic.

All parts were ordered and now arrived. Here is a complete list:

Three(3) MCZ3001DB IC Shindengen Chips. Ordered from Tri-State Module. $5.99 ea. X 3 + 4.80 USPS = $22.77

45-Watt Desoldering Iron (w/red bulb). Radio Shack model #64-2060. $10.99.

Desolder Replacement Tip (optional). Radio Shack #64-02061. $1.99

Tip Tinner & Cleaner. Radio Shack #64-020. $6.99

Alpha Fry Fine Electrical Repair Solder, 63/37 Rosin Flux Core (0.5 oz). Ace Hardware. $3.79

Weller Pro Series Self-Standing Soldering Iron (WPS-18MP). All-Spec. $25.31

Chem-Wik Rosin SD Desoldering Braid .100" Blue (10-5L). All-Spec. $2.58

Chip Lifter ESD Safe Handle (W27920). All-Spec. $4.47

Chip Extraction Tool. 8-24 Pins (EX1). All-Spec. $2.73

Grand Total: $81.62

Some of those tool items may be optional. Remember, I'm a first degree noob, and thus did not even own the basic items for DIY electronics repair. Now I do. So, maybe if this fix is successful, I'll attempt something else later on. Might be a new hobby for me!

Later today, I plan to get an old boom box out of the garage and do a little desoldering/soldering practice on some circuit boards. Hopefully, I'll attempt the real fix over this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Icaillo, I need help. I practiced on a used circuit board desoldering & soldering similar looking IC's. The desoldering went very well but the soldering I was unsure.

Anyway, I've pulled my 40XBR out from the wall and swung around half way to have room to work. I then preceeded to unsrew all the screws around the perimeter. I tried to remove the back from the TV but no go. What could I be doing wrong?

PS: Update, I found the problem. The metal clip that held on the Sony Stand had to be removed. Looks very dirty inside. Should I clean it while the back is off? If so, how? Looking things over very carefully before I begin.
 

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Im sure Icaillo will be along soon but I can tell you that blowing out the inside of the TV is the best way. Dont breath any of it in (wear a dust mask). Air in a can will work well (do not shake the can).
When resoldering make sure that you use a good quality soldering iron and dont over heat the spot where you are doing the work, use a solder sucker or tape to remove the old solder and use some flux core solder when redoing the connection.
 

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I've been cleaning up things, and can see better now. Not sure where to go from here, and don't want to make any mistakes. I think I've got all the right tools, solder braid, solder, soldering irons, etc. On my 40XBR, you can slide out the entire electronics, and was trying to see if I could possibly do the job w/o removing the D-Board. Doubt I could solder upside down though. Where exactly are all the screws located on the D-Board? I think I need a step-by-step guide on this fix.
 

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I really would not recommend continuing if you are having this much trouble figuring this out. I cannot recall the exact location of every screw on every model and do not take pictures of each repair. I am sorry but I don't have the kind of step by step guideance that you desire. I can provide general information and assistance, but beyond that you are on your own.
 

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I really would not recommend continuing if you are having this much trouble figuring this out. I cannot recall the exact location of every screw on every model and do not take pictures of each repair. I am sorry but I don't have the kind of step by step guideance that you desire. I can provide general information and assistance, but beyond that you are on your own.
Thanks, but after all this time, trouble and expense of parts, etc. this attempted DIY Fix is going to happen, successful or not. I've got some more info on the D-Board removal from others that have done it, but being a noob at this I want to be very careful & sure I'm doing the fix properly, in order, and w/o adding more problems.
 

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Just don't force anything, release the connectors between the boards, disconnect the wires to the board, remove the screws, then it is held in by a few pressure clips around the sides. It really is not that hard.
 

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Just don't force anything, release the connectors between the boards, disconnect the wires to the board, remove the screws, then it is held in by a few pressure clips around the sides. It really is not that hard.
OK thanks, I'll be careful. This morning, I've been practicing desoldering/soldering more on an old circuit board.
 

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Just don't force anything, release the connectors between the boards, disconnect the wires to the board, remove the screws, then it is held in by a few pressure clips around the sides. It really is not that hard.
Status report: The D-Board is out and in "Service Position". I desoldered the two IC's fairly easily and they came out no problem. The Radio Shack desoldering iron w/red bulb & Chem-Wik desoldering braid you recommended were a huge help. Once the IC's are out, I shined a light through the D-Board and could see all the 18 holes were clear. Soldering was more difficult for me, but I have done it and looking carefully it appears OK.

Icaillo, I've got a slight problem I hope you can help. In the beginning of my repair, I was sliding out the component tray and afterwards noticed that the "white" wire coming from the Flyback had disconnected or come loose from the C-Board located behind the Yoke. There are three(3) wires coming out of the Flyback. The large red wire going to the CRT, the smaller gauge red wire going to the C-Board behind the Yoke, and then the "white" wire that seems to have been connected to the C-Board as well. For the life of me, I can not find where to exactly re-connect that white wire. What does this white wire do, and could you please tell me how to re-connect it? Thanks.
 

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IIRC, that is the G2 or screen wire. It goes into a connector and is pretty hard to get out. Did the connector come out with it. The connector is soldered to the board.
 

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IIRC, that is the G2 or screen wire. It goes into a connector and is pretty hard to get out. Did the connector come out with it. The connector is soldered to the board.
There is a red connector type still on the end of the white wire. I've looked at this red connector very closely, and there was no hint of solder on it at all.
 

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Probably broke it off. Can you find where it went on the board? IIRC it is near the edge of the board. When we change the flyback we usually just remove the red connector and solder the wire directly to the board, making a more durable connection.
 

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Probably broke it off. Can you find where it went on the board? IIRC it is near the edge of the board. When we change the flyback we usually just remove the red connector and solder the wire directly to the board, making a more durable connection.
When I look facing at the C-Board and where I think the wire might of come from due to the fact that there is absoutely no wire left to reach over, I see the writing "G2 CN909" (soldered side). Abover this G2 CN909, I see from the left to right, one hole soldered, hole not soldered, and then 4 holes soldered. The wire can only reach the first 2-3 holes. What would happen if I did not connect this white wire and turned on the TV? What do you suggest? Thanks.
 
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