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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

I wasn't sure where to put this thread but I need to finish my subs. I have bought some american white oak veneer sheets and want to stain them to match my cherry Monitor Audio RS6's and give them the gloss look aswell but I am not sure what is the best way to do this.

I would really appreciate your advice on this and what is the best way to do it and what process I should be taking so that I don't get any inperfections like streaking etc...

I know that you can get water based and solvent based stains etc.. but don't know if one is better than the other.

cheers

Graham
 

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I am working on mine now and I copied what another person did with their project. Sand well down cascading to extra fine paper. Use a wood conditioner. This keeps the stain from blotching on the wood. Vacuum away or blow off the dust using air and then wipe the wood with tack cloth. There are several ways to apply stain. I rub it in using a rag. Once the stain is dry, apply a thin coat of your poly with a fine bristle brush. Once that dries and has at least a day to harden, sand with 0000 super fine steel wool. Repeat poly. I have read on hear about guys doing this step up to 7 or 8 times. I was happy with twice on mine.

My problem is the dust that settles on the finish while the poly dries. Maybe someone knows how to eliminate this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi there,

Thanks for that. Funny I was watching a video on you tube about conditioning the wood but wasn't sure how important it was. I guess it is.

Would you be able to upload any pics to show me if possible.
cheers

Graham
 

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Hi there,

I wasn't sure where to put this thread but I need to finish my subs. I have bought some american white oak veneer sheets and want to stain them to match my cherry Monitor Audio RS6's and give them the gloss look aswell but I am not sure what is the best way to do this.

I would really appreciate your advice on this and what is the best way to do it and what process I should be taking so that I don't get any inperfections like streaking etc...

I know that you can get water based and solvent based stains etc.. but don't know if one is better than the other.

cheers

Graham
I got good results using a water based Transtint stain followed by several coats of General Finishes High Gloss Oil & Urethane Topcoat. In a second project, I used a Watco Danish oil based stain in conjunction with wet sanding to fill the grain of mahogany veneer, then after several days a few coats of the same topcoat and finally one coat of Zar Semi-Gloss polyurethane (and final polishing). In my limited experience both of these approaches gave very nice results. In a third project, I used a Transtint dye under a shellac based sealer, which was then followed by an oil finish + polyurethane. This was less successful because the shellac leached out some the dye and made the final stain color slightly uneven (still good, just not perfect). Hope that helps.
 

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Sorry Graham, I didn't photograph that part of my build. Mine isn't the one that you would want to follow as a benchmark! I will post the stages when I finish my mains next week for you and post that if it's not too late.
 

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I'm also working on finishing my project. I'm using minwax polystain,poly and stain in one. Been using a nice brush but i keep getting bubbles :paddle. Tomorrow will be the second time i've sanded them out, i went out and bought a spray gun and gonna try that. One thing is for sure is i wont use the combo stuff again, too much trouble, trying to get a nice finish is holding me back from completeing this 2 week build. I'll post the results of how the spraying goes. :spend::spend::spend::spend::spend::spend:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Guys,

I really appreciate your replies and am looking forward to your pics. With regards to wood conditioner, I can't seem to find any over here in the UK. Would it be called something different over here do you think. I found sanding sealer but nothing else.

I watched a video yesterday on youtube and a guy showed a piece of wood with half done with wood condtioner and half without and then stained it. The half with the conditioner looked nice but the other part when really dark and streaky. The tests that I have done on my veneer with various colours of stains (probably water based stains) but as soon as I put a second coat on it would go too dark which is why I am a bit concerned with mine as they are big subs and there are two of them.

cheers

Graham
 

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Guys,
I really appreciate your replies and am looking forward to your pics. With regards to wood conditioner, I can't seem to find any over here in the UK. Would it be called something different over here do you think. I found sanding sealer but nothing else.
The one I did using Watco oil and mahogany is here:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ld-projects/25317-bandpass-sonotube-subs.html

The actual stain is pretty minimal (slight reddish tinge) - mostly it is just the color of the wood.

The other ones are here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=56687.msg661694#msg661694
the stands are oak with Transtint and oil finish.
 

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is the veneer hard to apply, I have a router with trim bit.

Can someone recommend a good black textured paint, I saw one before but lost the link.
 

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GOOGLE search: Wood veneer and somewhere is a site with step by step directions on applying the veneer and what type to buy. I don't have the link or remember the site but i know after researching the cost of the veneer and shipping i ended up going with scrap wood i had lying around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Applying wood veneer sheets is easy. Cut your veneer, apply the glue to the veneer and the mdf. Let it dry completely. When dry place your veneer on the mdf and then lay a thin sheet on the veneer and iron it on with the iron on the hot setting and not water in it. Works really well.

The hardest part is the staining.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi there,

Ive not done mine yet but when I do I will cover over the driver hole first and then roughly cut out the cirlcle shape leaving some overlap and then use a file. You could use a router but I reckon it will just split the veneer. Best thing to do is some tests and use a router to see if it works ok. I am sure I have seen some sites where people have used routers with success.

It would be much easier with a router then you would only need to sand the edge with a fine sandpaper.

Let me know how you get on if you try it out.


cheers

Graham
 

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I have done a bit of router trimming of pre-veneered over MDF for my kitchen and the only problem could I have at times is at the end when the router exits if if I wasn't paying attention and used the wrong direction, it helps to going the right direction and use a very sharp cutter. Maybe masking tape around the corner would help.

I have done circles cut for recessed light althought the cut is all the way through the subtrate, no problem.
Maybe it would help to veneer the entire sheet first then cut the circle with the MDF together.

In fact I think I want to trim the excess veneer on the whole sub this way, one face at a time.
 

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I have no problem with staining and finish
but I want to try plain maple that doesn't need stain and just a clear coat will do
I found this site called
oakwoodveneer.com that sells sheets in 4'x8' which is alot better than 24" rolls for subs.
Reasonable price too and just about any wood even fancy birdseye maple
 

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If you already have your hole cut for the sub then veneer over it let it dry then use masking tape around the hole to prevent bow outs or splits.Don't use painters tape though as the adhesive is not as strong as regular masking tape. Oh yeah and always do a test run before you move on to your box, and buy a qaulity flush trim bit (frued, bosh, etc.). Good luck hope this info helps.

Oh and be sure your tape is pressed firmly on the veneer then remove it pulling towerd the hole in the direction of the grain and remove the tape rite after the cut to prevnt adhesive from sticking to the veneer.
 

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The online info always made it seem easy but is applying the veneer difficult.
I will be spending many hours to build the cabinet and $$, I don't want to mess it when I put the cement or peel it off and get a big mess. How likely is a newbie like me to mess it up?
 

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No problem,if youv'e got the skill to build a solid, sqaure, enclosure i'd have no worries. just practice on scrap first. And as far as the mess goes if your using contact cement then it's only messy when it's wet. All you can do is try, practice makes perfect. Bambino.


Just remember when using contact cement you only have one shot at laying the 2 pieces together so make sure you have them wear you want them, you can do it.
 
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