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Discussion Starter #1
I have had the set for over 4 years with no problems. Tonight I got home with the temp about 55F due to heat prob and the TV would not turn on and had the blinking green light. I have read all of the posts on the blinking green light. I removed the DCM and looked at the capaciters. They look ok. I do not have an input button. So I don't get the code menu. What is the "input" button? Could my problem be the ambient temp?

Thanks
Yowzilla
 

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Input and Device are the same. If you have a continuously flashing LED, it won't matter because your problem is not a protect shutdown. The set is not completing the boot cycle because the main micro and DM micro are not talking. This is usually due to a problem in the DM supply. If the caps are not swollen, they could still be going bad, and the low temp could make that worse. I would check the fuses in the circuit and change the caps anyway. If a fuse is blown, there could be other problems in the circuit that would require troubleshooting.
 
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So just replaced the caps. All went together well, But I still have blinking light. Now back to the net to look around for more info and now I am thinking the polarity may be my problem. I placed the Neg side of the cap in the hole with the large white board marking and the pos in the unmarked hole. I may go back in to check.
 

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The mark is the negative side.

When you replace the caps and get the same thing, you need to start troubleshooting the regulators and reset circuits, try replacing the EEPROM, or just replace the DM.

Did you check the fuses in the DM supply? Any open?
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Where are the fuses on the DM supply? I looked for standard glass fuses but did not see any.

Do you have a post about troubleshooting the regulators and reset circuits?

Thanks for your help......

I have a new 52" LCD on the way.. I can get Sharp products thru my companies "Perks" Looks like I got a good deal. $1,200 for a LC52SE941UR. Bust buy has them for $2,300.

Regardless, I would like to get my 55" rear projection going at minimal cost so I can donate it for tax relief next year.
 
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I just saw you live in Gainesville...........I am a '95 BSME from UF living in Dallas, Texas.

Go Gators.........
 

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I am a Gator fan, except when they play LSU ( & MS from there)...well, this year I had to root for the Gators anyway, as they had a much better shot at the Title. I just wish they had not embarrassed the Tigers quite so badly.
 
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So I found the 4.5amp fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse with a 5 amp slow blow and when I pluged the set in it sounded like it had life but after a few minutes the light was still blinking.... Any other tips to trouble shoot?
 

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My first tip is to never replace a fuse without figuring out why it blew and especially not with a fuse less likely to blow than the original. This is a good way to do more damage. You troubleshoot BEFORE you replace the fuse to see what caused it.

The next step would be to determine which parts of the set are running and which are not. I cannot provide step by step troubleshooting in the forum, however. If you provide the location of the fuse I (or someone else) may recall what circuit it protects and that may give you a clue. If you don't have a manual or schematic, you will likely need one to troubleshoot the set.
 

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I just noticed that the thread was referring to a WD-55511, which is a non-existant model. I changed it to what I believe to be the correct model, WS-55511. WD models are the digital sets, while WS sets are the CRT based sets.
 
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