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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Read all the threads on the WS-55511 Here and none addressed my issue. :hissyfit:

It will sometimes last for 3 hours before turning off and other times will last about an hour. :explode:
Will turn back on after being left alone for about an hour. :T

Seems like something is overheating.
Any suggestions? :ponder:


Thanks
Richard
 

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My guess would be some capacitors in the main power supply or in one of the low voltage regulator circuits. Heat/cold, monitoring supply lines, scope on the supply lines, ESR testing, etc...basic troubleshooting for these kinds of problems.

Pull the diagnostic...MENU + INPUT together for 5 secs and count the flashing LED pattern for the two digit code.

Could be just some sticky control panel switches as well. This can be isolated by unpugging the control panel after turning the set on and see if it shuts down.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
My aunt did not give me the correct symptoms (troubleshooting for her)
It doesnt stay on at all

Error 22
04 and 05 are blown.

Bypassing them with precision clips allows the set to turn on with nonadjustable convergence. So i assume its the STK393-110

A second opinion would be nice.

Thanks alot
Richard
 

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Please edit your post. Derogatory statements of any kind violate the rules of the forum.

Bypassing fuses is a very bad idea. Based on what you found, however, I would just replace the IC and the fuses, and your problem will likely be solved.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
IC = STK393-110?

I'm still pretty new to all this, everything seems to have 4 different things its called.

Thanks
Richard
 

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IIRC, the WS-55511 uses the STK393-110 for a convergence output IC. I suggest you confirm that by looking at the chip or checking the service manual. Be sure to order parts only from one of the suggested vendors. Many have been burned by cheap parts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was gonna go with http://www.bluestar-online.com
They seem to have been a provider here for a lot of repairs. (that is if I cant find out at my local distributor)
I'm going to grab some artic silver 5 for the replacement paste, and I guess Ill go to craigslist to find someone to soder on the new parts.
After pulling the board, I just don't trust myself to do that.

On a side note, I think i fubar'd one of those stupid little ribbons, although I can probably jam it in there to make it work.

The plastic on them was ridiculously brittle.


Any suggestions on cleaning solutions/procedure for the lens/mirror screen while I'm in there?
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good deal, OK, board is pulled.
I'll have to find someone local to solder that, after pulling it, I just dont trust myself to that kind of detail.

I plan on ordering from http://www.bluestar-online.com , seems they were used for alot of repairs here.

On a side note, I fubar'd one of the little ribbons that connect the board, the plastic on those is ridiculously brittle. I can probably make it work however.

I plan on getting some arctic silver 5 for replacement paste (hopefully that will lower the temp on that thing), possibly finding a 12 volt and screwing a fan down to that heatsink since they are so cheap. (any suggestions/thoughts?)

On another side note, is there a sticky around here some where about what I need/process to clean the lens's, mirror, and screen while Im in there? Might as well, as the dust was definitely in full choke me mode.
 

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Can you make it move at all?

Have you tested for d.c. offset at the input to the amps in the IC? Checked the resistors?
 

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I have not created a detailed sticky about lens cleaning, but hope to do so in the future. I have received a few requests for an easy to find summary. The best info out there is Bob Jones' threads on AVS (Mr. Bob) but I get people telling me all the time that it is hard to find stuff there.
 

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Yes, I can move them, but just not enough.

The resistors check out to be good.
Offset?
You need to zero the d.c. offset (or get it below 100 mV) by cnetering the static convergence in both the service convergence and the consumer convergence, then center the pix with the centering rings on the blue deflection yoke. If you still cannot adjust it, you may have a problem in the convergence generator or a corrupt eeprom. Sometimes you have to start from scratch with the convergence.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Upon further testing -- I can move the horizontal lines in to place, but the vertical lines do not move.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Found the problem, resistors in R8C21 and R8C22 are blown, will have to replace them with 2 watt @ 3.9 ohms resistors.

Also, new issue, daughter dropped a screwdriver while it was plugged in and blew a semiconductor. Its a 5 pronged STR-G6623 -- I assume replacing this will fix the no longer turning on at all issue, in fact its no longer getting power. (I love my little clumsy daughter -she was trying to help daddy)
 

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Please be careful with live electronics! Your daughter, or you, could be hurt badly with the voltages and current in the power supply.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hehe --yah -- she was banned from the room after that, my wife took over her flashlight holding job. Pulled the power, pulled the board. Pulled the burnt Semi (hopefully that will fix it that part) and got the part number, now its a wait til monday. Gotta go to the radio shack and grab some resistors
 

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Sorry, but I don't see the humor. Safety is no joke, and kids should not be allowed near an open set, particularly with a screwdriver.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, when choosing to be upset or humored, I try to go with humor, specially if I cant do anything about it (afterwards). Ill most likely take some photos to help the future DIY'rs find this stuff I had to hunt for like a **** dog.

Seems to be a very common problem with this set.
 
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