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Discussion Starter #1
I am having the red convergence and shadows like other have described.


I read the convergance thread and this one as well.
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/mitsubishi/2978-mitsubishi-hd-1080-red-green-shadows.html

I got into the set tonight. I went in throught the back. I found the large heat sink with the IC's but I could not find a cold joint on the bottom. I found and checked all the fuses they where good.

Could someone post a link to where I could find the proper parts(IC's). I can solder pretty well. I am a bit worried that this project may be a bit much though.

How did everyone get the board out to remove and replace the IC and re paste it? I had the tray slid half way out the back and tilted up to check the joints. So, just lablel and disconnect all the plugs and take the whole rack/chassis to the bench?

Thanks for any help, as I hope I can repair this set, bad timing to replace.
 

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two STK392-570 chips and/or some 3.9ohm 2 watt low ohm resistor
buy from acme-sales.net for chip and resistor
take the circuit board out to replace the chips.
 

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two STK392-570 chips and/or some 3.9ohm 2 watt low ohm resistor
buy from acme-sales.net for chip and resistor
take the circuit board out to replace the chips.
There is no need to remove the board if you can tilt
the chassis up and get to the solder joints. I rarely remove the board on a mits.

Acme is a very good vendor. There is a sticky with lots of parts suppliers in the diy forum.
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Discussion Starter #4
Okay I understand the removal of the IC now I think. Where are the resistors I need to replace? So, it's not just the multi pin IC chips? Are the acme chips the best replacement? And if I need resistors where do I get them? And where on the board are the resistors?

I had the chassis tilted up, but the black plastic where everything was mounted/ sitting on looked to be in the way of some of the joints.


Thanks for the help, I am building up the courage now to tear into it again. I know you all here get these questions all the time, but for newbs like me it can he a little intimidating. While the wife looks on.:scared: it more fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Trying to decide which resistors to buy. If one of you guys would be kind enough to guide me through which one(s) to buy.

Acme has 1/4W, 1W,2W, flame proof, and several others. Just not sure which to buy, I know the value is the same but want to make sure I get the correct part.

I am a little worried about trying this but it is replace the parts or cough up $400 for the repair guy. I cannot see putting more cash into a 6-7 year old set.

Again thanks for the help.
 

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So IF, these parts fix my issue, do I just use the remote and auto convergance? I have read about references to a convergance set up DVD/program or something of that nature. When I try to manually use the convergance now the red is way off and will not get "in line". I assume it is due to the parts I am buying.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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So IF, these parts fix my issue, do I just use the remote and auto convergance? I have read about references to a convergance set up DVD/program or something of that nature. When I try to manually use the convergance now the red is way off and will not get "in line". I assume it is due to the parts I am buying.

Thanks again for the help.
Which resistors are you replacing? These sets rarely damage resistors. There is no auto convergence in this set. You do it all manually.
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Which resistors are you replacing? These sets rarely damage resistors. There is no auto convergence in this set. You do it all manually.
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I read where you should replace the resistors as ell when doing the IC's. The above posters advisied me to. I guess I meant the factory convergence setting, then go into the manual and line them all up. Steep learning curve here, but I am trying and learning.
 

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I do not recommend replacing anything that is not broken. The resistors should be checked, and if open or damaged need to be replaced, but otherwise, there is no reason to do so. Read the convergence sticky very carefully for the first ten posts.

When the set is repaired, you sould reset the consumer convergence to "factory" settings, which are merely the last settings made in the service mode. You may need to go into the service convergence mode to adjust it, or you may be able to do it with the consumer advanced controls. The advantage of the former is that if someone selects the reset in the consimer menu, you don't lose your work.
 

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Thank you guys for all the help. My set is back from the bowed and distorted color land. I finally got around to replacing the parts. I did not replace the resistors, picture is great. I forgot how good the picture was supposed to be.

Acme was top notch. The help here was wonderfull. In these tough economic times this was a great help. I was going to have to wait untill Christmas sales to see if we could afford a new set. Now we are good for a while longer.

Anyone else with the same problems with this set, I can say it seemed very hard at first, but just jump on in and get to work. I will help in any way I can.

Thanks to all.
 

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I have a MITSU WS55809 wth the same problem I think.
The only thing different that I did not see from you guys is that I can adjust the white cross perfectly, but it makes lttle difference. In the advanced convergence adjust screen the graph is WAVY towards the top and the bottom.
Do you think my fix might be the same as yours? :nerd:
 

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Can you adjust the waves? Did you do a convergence reset in the consumer menu?
 
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