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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got this set free a few years back. It had the convergence problem when I acquired it. I fixed that up. Now the picture stays very bright at startup for anywhere from a couple seconds or for the duration the set is powered on. If I wack the top of the cabinet, it sometimes will revert back to normal color. Sometimes it will go all day without going bright and other days it is constantly bright.

I had it apart numerous times and it fixes it for a week or so. I think it's a bad connection on one of the boards, but I can't see any cold solder joints when I pull them for inspection.

I did remove the front access panel and if I reach to the right of the blue gun to the signal board, the vertical card there is accessible. If I flick it, I can change the state back to normal. I can't say it's this particular card or the vibration may affect the failing component indirectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
brightness.....



normal after flicking card.



The card that returns things to normal is the card behind the green/yellow stripe wire (3DYC)....

 

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I'll have to check this again when I get home from work, can't see pictures. It does sound like we might have the same issue. Maybe I'll try giving it a whack when I get home. Also I want to see if the front panel access like you said, I want to try what you did and see.

I'll have to get pics up of mine too. But once I see yours I think I'll know whether we have the same issue. Either way, if you figure it out, let me know! And I'll do the same. I desperately want to fix this so I can enjoy some movies.
 

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Look for cracked solder joints on the signal board, on the upright board, and look for coolant spills on the signal board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I narrowed it down. Connector RM. Still doing some testing. The connector is about 1-2 inches from the upright card. It has a pair of black and white wires that feeds each light CRTs. The blue CRT also has a brown feed to it. I don't have a Service manual for the 55809, but the one for my 55511 shows it as R out, NC, GND, G out, GND, B out, GND, IK. I don't know what IK is. If I move the ferrite collar, I can get it to toggle the state (bad to good and back in rapid succession).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pins 1, 7, & 8 have bad solder joints. Pin 8 is IK and may explain the problem. Now if I can find my butane.....
 
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