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Discussion Starter #1
I have WS-65311 but the same 2-2 problem. I checked the fuses and notice only the 5 AMP F9A05 is open. To make sure my convergence ICs are problem or not, I decided to change the fuse and if it pops up then I go for those ICs. I looked for the fuse here locally in Phoenix but all I could find was 4 AMP Littlefuse Pico II fast acting from FRY's Electronic. I used a pressure air (you usually use to clean computer keyboard) pointing at the Converge IC's to clean them from any dust and then paralleled one of the fuse with the bad one on the board (with the help of couple of clips) and turned the TV on and it worked. I turned it off after about 10 seconds and looked at the new pico fuse, it was still good. So this time I turned the TV on and let it work for some 5 minutes. The picture and sound was perfect but then turned it off again thinking it might damage the TV as should find out why the original fuse opened and then if this 4 AMP fuse would be ok or must look for the original one.
One other thing that I think of is that this problem happened to my set mainly when I tried to change the input type ( Component, DVD, Game ...) with TV's remote (for some reason Dishnetwork remote doesn't work on input part and I have to use the TV's remote to change it when needed), it turned the set off. I used to turn it on again but then when I used the input key on my remote it turned it off again and last time it didn't turn on again. So I am suspecting any element on the board which is working with this function.
Any help is appreciated.
Matt
 

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Re: Mitsubishi WS-55809 does not power on

Just change the ICs and get the right fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Mitsubishi WS-55809 does not power on

Thank you very much for the answer, but before I receive your email I had turned the TV on for an hour and worked perfectly. I then turned it off to see if it turns on again, it didn't. I checked the fuse but was still ok, I checked the other fuses and all were alright. I toched the heat sink of the IC's and both side were hot. Do you still advise to change the ICs?
Thanks
Matt
 

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Re: Mitsubishi WS-55809 does not power on

I moved your posts to a new thread to maintain forum organization. You should always start a new thread for a new problem. This makes it easier for others to share in your experience and make use of whatever advice you might receive.

Is the shutdown code still 2-2? If so, then yes,just change them, but make sure that you use parts from one of the recommended vendors. You could also have a problem in the power supply. Sometimes the caps in the secondary can create problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Mitsubishi WS-55809 does not power on

Yes lcaillo still 2-2, but I don't see my comment (question) here anymore. Is it moved to different place or I got a problem with my monitor too?
Anyway, I let the sink get cool and tried it half an hour later but the same. I unpluged the TV last night and pluged it in this morning (it's about 8 AM AZ time now) and turned it on, it worked, it powered up. I tried turning on and off couple of times, no problem, I changed the inputs couple of times, no problem.
Looks like when the sink is hot and if I then turn the TV off (or change the input) it doesn't come back again unless I unplug the TV for long time (may be this is not the case either). Looks like the problem is around the sink and the ICs. But if this is the fact (bad IC) then why when the TV is on this short voltage (2-2) doesn't shut the set down (TV can work for hours and hours without a problem) and just when it's turned off and wants to turn on again this problem happens?
Thank you and I Appreciate your technical skills.
Matt
 

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Probably an intermittent short or a cap going bad in the PS to the ICs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Which cap? Ok, You know this diagnosis is all over the internet:

"1. SHUTDOWN AT POWER WITH SELF
DIAGNOSIS ERROR 2 2. CHECK FOR LEAKY C9A60470 PF 1000 V PART #
154P400030, PARALLEL TO D9A57 ON THE POWER PCB (NOT SHOWN IN THE
SCHEMATIC). 2. SHUTDOWN AT POWER WITH SELF DIAGNOSIS ERROR 2 2. CHECK
FOR OPEN FUSES F9A04 AND F9A05 PART # 283P043090 ON THE +24 AND -24 VOLT
LINES. IF THE FUSES ARE OPEN THE CONVERGENCE OUTPUT CIRCUIT WOULD BE
SUSPECT. 3. SELF-DIAGNOSIS INDICATES SHORT PROTECT. CHECK FOR A SHORTED
IC4B01 PART # 270P261020 (VERTICAL OUTPUT) LOADING 24-VOLT SUPPLY LINE.
LOCATED ON THE MAIN PCB."

Is this C9A60 the cap you are talking about? I actually first looked for it on my board and after a an hour or more searching found a tiny yellow thingy which look more like a pea than a cap, next to diod D9A57 but I didn't see ank lick (or I couldn't see any), however, I noticed that the area beneath the cap and the diod on the board is a bit tinted. I looked carefully to see if that could be the same with any other part of the board but didn't find any. Every where on the board is bright milky brown color except under the cap and the diod (about half an inch) is a little darker! Would this be the cause?
I already got the cap here and what I can do is to parallel it to the D9A57 (since it is said above that it is paralled to D9A57) with some clips (like what I did withy the fuse) and give it a shot to see how it works.
Do you think it's a good idea?
Thanks a million Icaillo for your time and advise.
Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #8
And one more thing lcaillo (since you said a cap going bad in the PS to the ICs). The heat sink with ICs attached is on the Main Board but those fuses (F9A04 and F9A05) the same is cap C9A60 are on the Power Supply Board! And all I just can see two white connectores (like those you see on the computer boards) with some 10 to 20 pins connects these tow boards together. I just have to assume that the ICs get power through one of these connectors, am I right?
Thanks
Matt
 

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Yes, power goes to the main board through those white connectors. I cannot tell you which cap may be bad without testing. There are many that can cause problems. The tip listed may be useful, maybe not, but if you do not have the equipment or skills to troubleshoot it, you can just "shotgun" it by changing the likely parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you very much Icaillo for your reply (wow on Sunday). I just have a multimeter (quite good one). But I didn't understand what you meant by "Shotgun it" as not familiar with this term yet. Will appreciate if you give me a hint.
Thanks
Matt
 

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Shotgunning is changing parts based on a guess, without firm diagnosis. If you don't have a scope or ESR meter, you won't be able to check caps very effectively.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
lcaillo, I almost have taken the power supply board out except that got stuck on those two white connectors that connects the power supply to main board. Can you please tell me how they come off?
Appreciate it
Matt
 

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They just snap up. It takes even pressure, and sometimes they are very tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you Icaillo, I got it out. I will be changing the fuse F9A05 and the cap C9A50 meanwhile would like to check the IC IC9A50 if it is good or not (I might have damaged it some how), is there a way to check it with a multimeter?
Thanks
Matt
 

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Not much way to check ICs with a meter, unless they are dead shorted. Which chip is that?
 

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I got the number in your post. I just don't recall the function nor type number for every location in every set...posting a location number is like posting an address of an old client. I might remember the chip and its function from that bit of info, but chances are that I will need a bit more info. Sorry, but I do not do specific research for every problem posted here.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry, you meant the part number? The Mitsubish part is 267P161010 and general part number is HIC-STR-F6428S (according to the service manual).
Matt
 

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That is the power supply regulator IC. It might be a good guess, but there is little way to do a static test on it. If you are not familiar with troubleshooting switching power supplies, you can try to change it, but it is not a common failure on these sets. In fact, I don't recall ever seeing a bad one.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi Icaillo
Ok this is what I did. I took the Power Supply Board off the set on Friday and soldered the fuse which I paralleled it with the old one on the board earlier and then put it back and connected all the wires and connections, then push the power button on the remote, it powered up, and start working good! I turned it off and on couple of times, had no problem. I tried it several times during the day and the TV worked properly. Next day (saturday) morning I turned it on and tried on and off couple of times during the day and also tried all other TV's functions and it responded accordingly.
I left the town on Sat Night and returned this morning (Monday) and tried the TV again and worked very well as never had any problem! I think I can now assume the problem is gone and TV is back to normal again.
So I want to thank you very much for your time and effort spend on my case with the technical information that you sent me.
Matt
 
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