Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have searched this forum for over an hour, and I just cant find the PDF or link to the convegence problem that I had read on this forum about a year ago.

Does anyone have the link to the thread where there were pictures showing the detailed removal of the mother board for the IC repair?

I have the IC"s STK392-570, and have gotten as far as removing the back cover from the set, and stalled out completely at that point because I cant even see where the chips are...lol

My first question would be how to remove/disconnet the white bridge connectors that connect the boards at various areas.

Im just trying to remove the board so that I can have the IC's soddered, and I know I saw a thread with some pics of the step by step.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?
 

·
Plain ole user
Joined
·
11,121 Posts
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for.../5600-crt-based-rptv-convergence-repairs.html

is the general thread for convergence repairs. Most of the threads have been moved into the manufacturer specific sub forums so I would look in this one, the Mitsubishi forum for a thread with pictures. Sorry, I don't recall where that might be. All of the posts I make are more general, in order to be more useful for more people.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Icaillo.
This thread that Im referring to had close up pics of the entire process of removing the board, and he even marked where all the clips and screws were.
Not sure if that helps, its been over a year ago.
Guess the main thing Im trying to figure out is how to disconnect the little white (sorry dont know the correct name), bridge clips? they are the little bars that ate probably 2 inches long that connect the middle board to the outer boards. I know this sounds elementary, but Ive never done this before, so I guess it is.
I even printed out that entire original thread for future refrence, when I finally decided to kill the set, and try this repair, but I just cant seem to locate it now.
Thanks again, and I will continue researching the link.
 

·
Plain ole user
Joined
·
11,121 Posts
The white clips just pull up on the side that has the tabs. It helps to gently pry up from nder them with a screwdriver of something similar, but be gentle. Pull on both tabs at the same time while prying gently and they should pop up. They are tight.

Have you tried searching by model number? If the pix were your model, it was likely noted somewhere in the thread. If it was not your model, they may not be useful anyway as each chassis, and some models within a chassis series are often different.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks again, and yes the pics were from the Mits ws55807, and I have the 65. I figured the board layout would be the same configuration, but I could have been wrong on this assumption.
I figured thats how those clips came out, I just didnt want to try prying them up only to discover that they had some special retaining clip or something.
Hope I bought the right IC's, cant see them on the back of the heat sink until I have removed the board, but I know that someone, probably you, from this board confirmed that the 392-570's where the correct IC's.
Thanks again, this thread and your patience and expertise advise is what has given a total novice such as myself the courage to attempt this fix myself.
 

·
Plain ole user
Joined
·
11,121 Posts
I believe that these two sets were similar in terms of removal of the board and electrical chassis.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well, I got the board out. There was some metal bar that ran across the back of the heat sink that I had to remove first because it was blocking access to the little screws holding the heat sink down to the board. Not sure what purpose that bar has other than making it a PITA to see the screws if you didnt know they were there. lol
But anyway, I wonder now if the entire tray on this model comes out some how, and then you can remove the board. Probably so, but I usually do things the hard way the first time.
I will update once I get the board back and see if it works.
Thanks again.... typhus

Sorry about the confusion concerning the link, heres what I was talking about from another forum.... http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/143561.html
 

·
Plain ole user
Joined
·
11,121 Posts
The bar clamps the chips to the heat sink assuring tight contact and heat transfer. The "tray" does slide out. You have to release more wires but you can pull it out and turn it up on the front side on most Mits sets and complete the repair without removing the whole board. Depending on the set is can be easier one way or the other.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Just a quick update. Got the new IC's sodered in, and the mother board back in place, fired up the big ole mits and she looks better than ever.
No more Bow Tie!!!
Cant express how happy I am right now, to thank that a total newbie with no prior experience at all with working on TV's or anything electronic, could actually do this fix. But I couldnt have even attempted this without the info I found on this board.
Thank you Icaillo for this forum, its truly a great knowledge base, and a great place to learn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
After replacing the IC's I was concerned that I would have to adjust the calibration like others have mentioned in similar IC repairs.
Is it unusual that everything appears as it was before the repair?
Everything looks great, just curious if I got lucky with this one.
 

·
Plain ole user
Joined
·
11,121 Posts
There is surely some adjustment to be done, but if you are happy with the result, then be happy with the result.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top