That's looking very impressive already.
As for the staining I find to match another piece of wood you will need to keep all your offcuts and try it on them first.
Let me know how you get on as it can be tricky and there is an art in getting it right.
Feel free to pm me if you get stuck.

Cheers,
Bill.

 

As for the staining I find to match another piece of wood you will need to keep all your offcuts and try it on them first.
Let me know how you get on as it can be tricky and there is an art in getting it right.
Feel free to pm me if you get stuck.

As I've never veneered or stained anything, I may take you up on your offer. Thanks.

 

Only had a couple of hours of spare time today to start assembly, I'd say I'm approximately 1/3 complete.

First glued and screwed some practice pieces to get a feel for how much glue (Titebond) to use and how easily the screws would bite/recess. Started with too much glue, lots of dripping down sides. Settled on a practice of laying a bead and then gently dragging my finger across to evenly coat surface. Kept a wet rag handy to clean up any excess after each piece was secured. Used a handful of clamps (2 - 3' and 2-1' I picked up at Harbor Freight for cheap) to secure the work while I pre-drilled and inserted screws, the process worked very well.

As of now the L-port is fully built and secured to the bottom of the sub-woofer frame, and 1 side is attached to the bottom as well. In my haste I forgot I wanted to paint the port surfaces near the opening black before securing ... oh well I'll tackle that next. Also will add a bead of silicone to all internal seams while I still have access to them. I must say the square-head trim screws are a cinch to work with, don't slip and easily recess themselves, no need for countersinking.

Was so pressed for time today, no new pics taken, but I'll take some on the next building session. Hopefully prior to next weekend, but weekdays are always hit-or-miss for personal projects.

Steve

 

can you send me the sketchup file you have for the box? lease:
i am working on building a ported box very similar to this.
thanks.

 

The file is approximately 3MB and exceeds the allowable size for an .skp or I would have included in the 1st post. You don't have sufficient posts for a private message. Not sure the best way to make the Sketchup available to you or others ... anyone have suggestions?

 

other than emailing the file as an attachment, i am not sure.
i dont know if posting email addresses is allowed.
you could try uploading to a file share site like dropbox or filez.

 

Use the post padding thread located here to get to 5 posts - this should enable the PM feature (as well as many other site functions) - check out the top of the Zero Tolerance Rules for a comprehensive list.

 

Had the day off and made a bit more progress. Port is painted black using Rust-Oleum flat black spray paint. Front inner baffle and rear wall are now also installed. Using silicone to seal all inner seams.

Here are some pics of the current progress.

Side, back, and port installed ...

Close-up of trim screw to show nice natural recess ...

Side shot with front inner baffle, side, rear, and port installed ...

And one more for good measure ...

Had to stop today because went to install quarter round at top of inner port opening and realized I only have 1/2" quarter round in the garage, need 3/4". Will have to make a run to the store tomorrow to pick it up.

 

Great work so far. Its starting to take shape for sure.

 

Looking good. Keep us posted on progress and especially how it sounds.

 

Here are some new pics of today's progress ...

Quarter-round added to port opening ...

Internal bracing assembled and installed ...

Installation of front baffle ...

Top view of current state of sub ...

Only pieces left to secure are the subwoofer top and quarter-round around the front face. Then wood fill and sand all screw holes, round-over the front port opening for flare, install driver and amp and give it a test run. Next build session will probably be next weekend, tomorrow is booked.

 

A project near to it's close. A lovely sight to see.

cheers

Graham

 

A project like this deserves taking a couple days off work to finish

 

Fortunately, I have off for a week starting next weekend, so the fun will have to wait till then.

 

Decided to put a little thought tonight into the grill design as I hadn't really considered it yet. Compared a round driver cover vs rectangular, modeled both in Sketchup, and both the wife and I preferred the rectangular.

The plan is to cut an MDF frame covered in black speaker cloth and mounted by magnetic grill guides (which will lay under the wood veneer). I may do a soft round-over or bevel on the front of the frame for style. The magnetic grill guides and speaker cloth should arrive tomorrow from Parts Express.

The finished result should look something like this ...

 

Yummie! I think your subs would do a good job as my sub 3+4 in HT... Have to finish HT first and see what sub 1+2 produce.

 

A few more hours of work on the subwoofer today. Box assembly is basically complete, top has been added, 1/4 round added to front face, front port has been flared, screw holes filled twice with wood filler.

If I can get some time in tomorrow, I should be able to fire it up. I do need to add some additional length to the speaker cable from the Epik amp, as my subwoofer is 8" deeper than the Valor cabinet, and there isn't enough slack.

Here are some pics of today's progress.

Top added to box ...

All inner seams sealed with silicone ...

Quarter-round added to front face ...

All screw holes filled once with wood filler ...

Front port flared with 1/2" round-over bit ...

And all screw holes filled a 2nd time and sanded ...

 

Finally got a chance to fire it up tonight. First impressions are good, however my 3 yr old was already asleep by the time I turned it on, so I couldn't really push it. I listened to Nemo's Darla scene, Iron Man Escape from Cave scene, and Polar Express Train Arrival scene.

Ran into a problem today in that my outer circle cutout was a bit too tight and not quite perfectly round as I used a hand-held router for the cutout. That required almost an hour of using a grinding bit on my drill to open the hole a bit more so the driver would drop in. Lesson learned is next time I'll take the time to create a proper jig and use the router for the circle cuts.

I figure I'll leave the sub in the room for a little while, measure the frequency response, to make sure its performing as I'd expected. Then I'll continue with the finishing, including building the grill cover, and installing the wood veneer.

The wife is a little peeved with the size increase. :hissyfit: I told her she's only noticing because its not properly finished yet. :bigsmile:

Here are some more pics of today's progress.

Did a bit more work properly finishing the port opening ...

Painted the back black to minimize attention (I won't be finishing the back with veneer) ...

Another pic of the face ...

Size comparison between my ported enclosure and the original Valor enclosure ...

A 2nd size comparison ...

A pic of the sub in its final resting place ...

 

Performed some more spirited listening sessions, including Master and Commander First Battle scene and War of the Worlds Pods Emerging scene. :hsd:

To my ears, output is significantly improved down low from sealed enclosure. Also listened to some bass heavy music (primarily through MOG streaming from Roku player) and didn't notice any degradation in sound quality as some have indicated when going to a ported alignment.

I also performed a frequency sweep (14 Hz to 160 Hz) using a test tones CD I created and my Radio Shack analog SPL meter. I don't have a laptop with proper soundcard capability for REW. I sat in the primary listening position in the room which is about 10 ft from the subwoofer for all measurements. I set my receiver volume to -30 and manually recorded the measured SPL for each tone, adjusting the frequency range on the meter as necessary. I didn't disable the main speakers and my receiver crossover is set for 80 Hz. I fed the raw values into the Excel spreadsheet from HTS (with meter correction factors included) and took the corrected values and pasted them into a new clean spreadsheet for graphing. I think I did all that right. :huh:

Here are the results:

I see some good and some bad here. It looks like I'm getting good output down to under 20 Hz which is where the HPF is. This is the primary benefit of ported over sealed and the reason I wanted to do this project. The bad is it is not a terribly flat response, highlighted by the peak at 40 Hz. I don't currently have any subwoofer EQ capability and the position of the sub is fixed based on furniture layout. Perhaps a MiniDSP is in my future.

 

Where're the finished pics of this bad boy?

 

Unfortunately, my busy life hasn't allowed me to finish the veneer/grill.

The wife is starting to get cranky with the unfinished state and is turning up the pressure to complete, so maybe soon.

 

This is the first time I've seen a manufacturers sealed sub converted to the same manufacturers ported sub. You've done well! :T

 

Well over a year later and a 2nd child added to the household, I have some progress to report on the finishing of this project.

I created the grill from MDF and Parts-Express black speaker cloth. My plan to use the Neodymium magnets to hold the grill in place is a FAIL. I drilled a small recess to hold the magnets in both the grill cover frame and body of the subwoofer, dropped the magnets in the hole sitting in a pool of glue, then wood filled a small layer over the top of each magnet. When all is said and done, there isn't enough magnetic force to prevent the grill from shearing down the face of the subwoofer. No big deal, I'll simply buy standard ball/socket type grill mounts to ensure the cover stays in place. Perhaps if I used 8 pairs of magnets rather than 4, it would have been sufficient.

I also ordered a BASH 500S last week when went on sale at Parts-Express to add a little extra overhead above the 300W that came with the subwoofer. Plan is to modify the resistors for bass boost tomorrow. I am also planning to do a final sanding of the box this weekend prior to attach of maple paper backed veneer I've purchased. I'll attach the veneer via contact cement.

Also as Epik Subwoofer announced they are going out of business, they've published the T/S parameters of the Valor driver because they're selling off remaining stock. I am now able to simulate in WinISD the actual performance of this specific driver in my enclosure which I wasn't able to do before.

Attached is the basic before and after sim, before being the stock Valor sealed configuration and my new ported enclosure with 500W BASH amp. This gives a basic visual of the extra output I've gained by the project.

 

That's a big difference in output. I'll guess you modeled the 20.7 hi pass filter from the 1 db boost table on the Bash 500.

 

I'm actually planning and modeled the 19.1 Hz HPF with 4dB Bass boost from the BASH boost tables.

The original 300W amp from Epik had a similar 20 Hz HPF with 5dB boost.

 

Cone excursion isn't an issue?

 

Here's a SPL comparo to show impact of sealed -> ported enclosure impact as well as BASH 500 upgrade.

Yellow = Epik Valor (Sealed)
Red = DIY Ported Enclosure with Epik 300W
Magenta = DIY Ported Enclosure with BASH 500s

Here's is the equivalent cone excursion graph which indicates no probs.

With the BASH 500 my port velocity maxes out at 28 m/s which is a little higher than I'd wanted, but it occurs around 18-19 Hz so I expect I'll be fine. I'll likely not be running the thing anywhere near max output often.

 

Looks good, you definitely did your homework.

 

I modified the BASH amp HPF/Boost resistors last weekend as planned.

Got a late start today so only managed to cut the 4 veneer panels to size (top, sides, face) and attach the top via contact cement.

Here's a pic:

Also one with the grill shown:

Tomorrow I've got a kiddie party to attend so this weekend may be done for subwoofer progress ...the saga continues.