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In any of the cases above, any cavity must have insulation in it. If it doesn't, it will ring regardless of the amount of drywall you put on it. I would assume that would mean existing drywall will have to come down - at least part of it to blow in insulation. Then more a matter of as long as some is coming down, do you want to pull it all down and use clips or is that not even an option?

If you're going to have 3 leaves, really doesn't matter how you do them but making them denser will help some.

Bryan
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
And my HT walls are already built and in place so I don't want to remove them to remove the ceiling. I think I'll just build it as designed and put Roxul within the ceiling "joists" which will essentially create a sandwich of 5/8" drywall being the "bread" with the meat/cheese being the insulation.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Finally got the tank relocated! All four walls are up and I've prewired the receptacles. Next is to attach the top plate using DC04 clips. I didn't take any pictures because there's not much to look at, imagine the tank out of the corner... :D I feel a huge weight off my shoulders having that tank moved! Now I can focus on the actual room!
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
The tank is now in the storage room!

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I put pipe insulation around the large pipe coming in from the well and attached the outlet PEX pipe with plastic clips at each stud. I plan on spray foaming the holes that the Romex goes through so that it doesn't vibrate and create noise.

I also made the top plate connection using DC04 clips.

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I had to add some blocking in some locations to allow me to bolt through to the existing floor trusses above. I'm impressed with the results. The walls are now very solid and I did the "tap test" by banging my fist on the HT wall studs and the existing stairwell walls and was impressed by the difference when putting my ear against the studs for comparison. If I banged on the existing stairwell wall studs and placed my ear against the adjacent stud in the same wall it would ring, but when I kept my ear on that same stairwell wall stud and hit the closest HT wall stud it was MUCH more subdued.

I started building my integrated soffit framing by using Simpson Strong-tie system parts and pieces. I was able to do pull-ups from the center of the 2x6 cross "beam" without it flexing or giving any signs of failure. I weigh 225 pounds so I'm comfortable with my soffit as designed!

Next up is to finish the soffit framing and the electrical rough in. Also need to order putty pads for the electrical boxes. Anyone know where I can get them the cheapest?
 
The tank is now in the storage room!

Image


I put pipe insulation around the large pipe coming in from the well and attached the outlet PEX pipe with plastic clips at each stud. I plan on spray foaming the holes that the Romex goes through so that it doesn't vibrate and create noise.

I also made the top plate connection using DC04 clips.

Image


I had to add some blocking in some locations to allow me to bolt through to the existing floor trusses above. I'm impressed with the results. The walls are now very solid and I did the "tap test" by banging my fist on the HT wall studs and the existing stairwell walls and was impressed by the difference when putting my ear against the studs for comparison. If I banged on the existing stairwell wall studs and placed my ear against the adjacent stud in the same wall it would ring, but when I kept my ear on that same stairwell wall stud and hit the closest HT wall stud it was MUCH more subdued.

I started building my integrated soffit framing by using Simpson Strong-tie system parts and pieces. I was able to do pull-ups from the center of the 2x6 cross "beam" without it flexing or giving any signs of failure. I weigh 225 pounds so I'm comfortable with my soffit as designed!

Next up is to finish the soffit framing and the electrical rough in. Also need to order putty pads for the electrical boxes. Anyone know where I can get them the cheapest?
Good progress mate!

For putty pads, I got mine from The SoundProofing Company and they were fairly priced. Also, if you call to order them, they apply a discount if memory serves.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Thanks ALM for the feedback!

I just started reading through you build thread and have come to realize that we have (had in your case) VERY similar builds!!! You had to move a tank, no kidding! You went with a Panny PJ (I'm looking into the 8000U) after thinking about the Epson 8350. You have the same ceiling height and interior dimensions (within the soffits) as me and have figured out a DIY solution for Fiberoptic star ceiling (which I will be copying, BTW). You also ran three dedicated 20A circuits to your AV closet. Your room, although oddly shaped, is about the same size as mine. And finally, you had kids and a wife to "deal with" while you made construction noise downstairs! There will probably be more in your thread that I find similar to mine as I read through the rest of it!

:D
 
Thanks ALM for the feedback!

I just started reading through you build thread and have come to realize that we have (had in your case) VERY similar builds!!! You had to move a tank, no kidding! You went with a Panny PJ (I'm looking into the 8000U) after thinking about the Epson 8350. You have the same ceiling height and interior dimensions (within the soffits) as me and have figured out a DIY solution for Fiberoptic star ceiling (which I will be copying, BTW). You also ran three dedicated 20A circuits to your AV closet. Your room, although oddly shaped, is about the same size as mine. And finally, you had kids and a wife to "deal with" while you made construction noise downstairs! There will probably be more in your thread that I find similar to mine as I read through the rest of it!

:D
You know, it is quite funny that you mention that as I remember thinking as I was reading about your tank move that it sounded exactly like what I had to do and the steps that I took to make sure there were no rattles. :)

And, kudos to you for trying to read that monstrosity - I see it just hit 89 pages. :yikes:

Where are you planning to get your star ceiling kit from?
 
I've only gotten to page 34 thus far, starting this morning!

I might go with this kit: http://www.wiedamark.com/400ledstarceiling.aspx
Looks like a good unit - mine did not have the color wheel. Only difference in mine was that the wiring had different sized filaments in there so you had "larger" and "smaller" stars and it had 480 strands. I have seen where people put filaments together though to create a larger star or even a comet.
 
Well I also looked into this one: http://www.wiedamark.com/328ledstarceiling-1.aspx

It has less fibers but 3 various sizes and the illuminator also has a "crystal" inside to help them shimmer more like a star...
I guess it depends on if you wanted different sizes. If so, I would go with this one. I can tell you I like how the different sized stars look on mine - and so does the rest of my family.

This might be a good point to get your family excited about the room - ask them which they like. Also, the panels are super easy to do - I had my 12 and 9 year old help me build mine.

I still remember the first time I took them in after the panels were up and working - it was one of the handful of times where my whole family was really giddy about the room.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I'm definitely thinking about doing a couple of "constellations"! My 3yo son has one of those "Moon In My Room" moons and I got to thinking that I could get one and modify it a little bit and use that too!

I stopped by Lowe's on my way home tonight to grab a couple more pieces of lumber and they had bags of sand outside on pallets with a clearance sign on them. Normally priced at $3.69 a piece and were marked down to $2.48. I didn't want the ones outside since they were all wet (not damp, but fully saturated). 4 full pallets of wet sand... So I went inside to see if they had any that were dry and they only had the other brand, and regularly priced. I asked the manager if he would honor the clearance price since I wanted dry sand and he did! So I grabbed 10 more bags and will swing by on my way home tomorrow to get the rest of the bags I'll need for my stage. I like finding deals!

Since I work at an architecture firm as a Project Manager I was able to order a bunch of carpet and fabric samples today which should arrive soon. I'm getting the entire GoM FR701 collection, a bunch of different carpet samples and some other odds and ends to check out. Helps when you're in the profession. I was able to tile my entire upstairs half-bath with "samples" I had coworkers and other friends in the industry order for me!

As my dad always said growing up, "It's not what ya know, its who ya know!"
 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
Picked up the theater seats yesterday and I brought home my GoM FR701 samples to pick out colors.


Pardon the mess!







I forgot to take a pic of the carpet but it's the one pictured below which has blue tones in it and the field color is called black but actually has dark blue/purple in it. My plan is to carpet the floor with this and a cheaper solid black for the riser and stage to save on cost.

Image


I've also got about 60% of the soffits built.


Looking up from the HT door.


Along the left side of the HT.


From second row (knealing).

Next up is to finish the soffit framing, build backer boxes for the electrical boxes and lights, install the conduit to the PJ and to the stage and then I can insulate!
 
Looking forward to seeing the final ceiling. The shallow soffits look cool, a little different than the typical standard framed ones. So they're decoupled from the ceiling, and attached directly to the joists with the strong ties? I don't think the strong ties are visible in the pics above, but hey, if you can hang on them, they're good. I can't remember if you planned to have some rope lighting up there, in addition to the stars?
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
The existing ceiling is going to remain. The framing is held 1" down from the existing drywall and is supported at the top plate using DC04 clips bolted thru the existing drywall ceiling into the existing floor trusses. The soffit was then "hung" from the wall framing using 2x6's which create the perimeter of the inside of the soffit and I used the Simpson screws with hex heads at the connection points. The soffit joists are held tight to the underside of the wall top plate so that there is in effect a 2.5" gap between the top of the soffit frame and the existing ceiling. The intermediate soffit framing is 2x4's so that's why you see a gap between the top plate of the wall and the top of the soffit framing. I will the frame the ceiling with 2x4's across the room @ 24" O.C. with batt insulation within the spaces and then I will hang my new ceiling drywall from them. I had purchased and might add the Simpson support angles at these new ceiling "joists" for piece of mine, but like I said, I can do pull ups without it flexing...

I'm going to do the DIY star ceiling, following ALMFamily's design, and the seven 3" can lights within the soffits. I'll add rope lighting to the risers edge and might add some below the theater seats so that people can get to their seats without having to turn on the other lights.

I temporarily pushed both rows of theater seats into the room to see how they fit and check for clearances and I MIGHT be able to use both rows AND a couple of recliners for the first row... But I'm going to finish up the room with the drywall before I can truly decide. It is TIGHT, but might be feasible. It also might force me to change my screen size to accommodate but I'm okay with that. We'll see.





I might go down to 3 seats at the back, centered in the room and then 4 for the middle row and offset them so that the people in the back row are looking through between the people in the row in front of them. They are aligned in the picture but I'm going to look into offsetting the rows and putting the back row on a 8.75" riser (need to study headroom further) and the middle on a 4.375" riser with the potential for a couple of recliners on the floor.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Got the rest of the soffit framing up tonight as well as some of the conduit. No pics. It's boring... Time to start building the backer boxes for the can lights and put blocking in for the surrounds. Then some more wiring.

I've decided to go with the Epson 8350 since it's been on my watch list for a long time and is an LCD PJ. I'm concerned my wife is sensitive to the RBE and want to stay away from it. I know I'll have to manually zoom if I want to watch 16:9 content but most of what we'll be viewing will be new blurays in 2.35:1 or thereabouts. The idea is that since 4k is fast approaching I can get into the 8350 now for under $1k and then when funds allow and I feel the need to upgrade I can do so at that time. So I should be able to get into a 125" diagonal 2.35:1 DIY screen and the 8350 for under $1500. I think that's a sweet deal that I can't pass up!
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
So in thinking about the design of the star field ceiling as ALM has it, I'm concerned about the MDF panels "ringing" and have thought about placing sound deadener typically used in car audio to dampen the effects that the LFE's will have on these loosely laid panels at the ceiling level. Normally you only need to adhere about 25% of the overall panel size in the material but I'm going to go to like 50% and a thicker (80mils) instead of the "standard" 50mils used in car audio. I'm hoping doing so will reduce the panel resonance. Obviously I would have to apply the deadener prior to drilling the holes for the fibers. Thoughts?

Also, we decided on a different carpet:

Image


It's the Joy Carpets "Damascus - 1755" in black. There is some slight blue cues in it as well so it will tie into the room nicely. This will be placed as the main "field" in the room while the stage and riser will be covered in a standard black carpet.

Tonight, I'm buying the rest of the insulation I need for the ceiling cavities and the MDF to start constructing the backer boxes.
 
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