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Pednault's Place Theater Build

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51K views 167 replies 15 participants last post by  Todd Anderson  
#1 · (Edited)
Let me catch you all up to speed with my build. I've been stock piling materials for several weeks now and am slowly making progress on the framing.

My first theater design was in 2009 for a new home I had designed (architect by trade), but we didn't build it. Fast forward 3 years, bought a newly constructed home in January of 2012 and put in a couple of provisions for my dedicated theater during the build. My dad builds homes for a living (and built mine), so I got the chance to add some dedicated electrical outlets and coax to the closet under the central stairs which will be my future AV/Media closet.

Pay no attention to the color scheme as I haven't decided on ANY of the colors yet.


Xray view facing the screen:


I'm moving this water pressure tank next weekend so that it's out of the theater:


Framed the entry door:


I'm using 2x4's spaced at 24" on center and will be using one layer of 5/8" drywall for the walls and soffits (more on this later). I'll be using a million and a half tubes of acoustic sealant anywhere I can. I built the wall parallel to the existing stairwell wall and held it off by 1". And also built the return wall which creates the storage space behind the back of the HT. I'll be picking away at the other two walls over the course of this week. I plan on holding the walls along the concrete foundation walls by at least 2" to allow for the water inlet pipe run back to the storage room. I'll be wrapping the new pipe in insulation so that it doesn't create noise within the wall.

The finished room dimensions will be approximately 12'-2" x 19'-8" x 7'-3" before acoustic treatments. I've fully decoupled the walls using the room within a room concept. The only attachment points to the pre-existing structure will be at the sill plate that rests on foam sill sealer and the tops of the walls which will be held utilizing RSIC-DC04's fastening thru the existing drywall into the floor trusses. The existing ceiling is 5/8" drywall with engineered floor trusses with the cavities filled with R19 fiberglass batts. Since I'm building a "fish-tank" I'm hoping I can watch movies and play my video games while my wife and son sleep two stories up. We'll find out since, once I get the first layer of drywall up in the room, I'm going to do some serious, full range, high SPL testing. If I find that my methods are not sufficient I will add another layer of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between the staggered layers. If that still doesn't function, I'll just have to adjust the maximum volume setting on my Onkyo! :heehee:

I'm new to posting here but have been an avid reader/researcher of both this forum and AVS. So I'm familiar with the methods used for sound isolation and the like. I haven't set a budget on this build as I will pick away at it as funds allow. So far, I've got a stock pile of all the 2x4's I'll need with only the riser and stage lumber to purchase. I've got seven 3" can lights for the soffits, black Lutron dimmers, black outlets, electrical boxes, wiring, 200' of CL2 speaker wire, PVC electrical conduit which will create a raceway around the soffit for future low voltage runs, RG6 subwoofer cable, a 7.1 HDMI wall plate for the AV closet, High Speed HDMI cable for the PJ, all the R13 insulation I'll need for the walls and soffits and probably a bunch more of miscellaneous items I'm currently forgetting.

Every trip I make to Home Dustpan :rofl: from now on, I pick up at least one 50lb bag of sand since I will need 30 of them to fill my stage. I'm currently at 8. It's less burdensome to lug one or two bags down every couple of days rather than trying to do it all at once. BTW, that's over 1500 pounds of sand...

I've got some 3/4" MDF left over from subwoofer builds (I install car audio as a part time job) which I will use to make backer boxes for outlets/lights and such. I'm going to mount my PJ within a hush box which will have an exhaust fan dumping the hot air into the adjacent storage space and keeping as much of the PJ's noise out of the HT.

I'm framing the soffits in such a way that actually makes them more like roof framing. They will not touch the existing ceiling and will hang from the new wall framing at the perimeter of the HT utilizing Simpson Strong-ties. Therefore, it will be decoupled from the rest of the house. Any penetration into the HT drywall will receive a backer box of MDF and sealed with acoustic sealant. The soffit and the main ceiling cavities will be filled with fiberglass batts as well.

I'm going to build an 8' x 8' riser and push it to the back and one side of the HT. This will allow my in-swing door to fully open 90 degrees and will allow for the most seating. My seating plans are to get a reclining sofa for the front row and I'm still battling my decision for the back row. I've found some real theater seats locally on craigslist, but I'm sure they aren't all that comfortable. But at only $150 for two rows of 4, I may just buy them and see if I can squeeze both rows on my riser 8'x8'... Since the theater will be used by only me 60% of the time and by me, my wife and one son 25% more, with only the remaining 15% being for family gatherings and parties, the sofa will be the money seat while the back row(s) are "filler" seating. I may have just talked myself into buying those seats while typing this! :heehee:

Actual shot of one of the seats I might buy:


If you haven't noticed already, I tend to ramble on and type too much but it's mostly due to me keeping a running list of things I need to do or decide on or even things I need help with.

And before I get bombarded with "what are you doing for HVAC" questions, let me give you a bit more information. I live in Maine. My basement is 8 to 10 degrees cooler (even more so in the winter) than the rest of the house and currently has no heat source besides the earth below and surrounding it. I've got 2" of rigid insulation under the slab and 8" thick concrete walls around the perimeter. We, here in Maine, don't have central forced air, ducted HVAC systems because we don't usually have the need for cooling. When and if we do, we use window AC units to cool our homes. The adjacent room to my theater will be a game room / bar area which has two windows that can easily take a window AC unit if the need arises. As for heat, the adjacent room will get one of the infrared Edenpure fake fireplace heaters and that's it, no heat in the theater other than warm bodies and lighting (my equipment will all be within the AV/Media Closet). If I find that the air is too stale in the HT, I will simply open the door and run a small room fan to circulate the air. When it's just me in the theater most of the time I can't imagine it getting uncomfortable over the course of under 3 hours and if it does I'll figure out a way to manage it then. For now, there is absolutely zero plans for any venting or cooling for my HT. My initial plan was to use two dead vent systems, (one for supply and one for exhaust) and although it would be a royal PITA, I've designed the framing to allow for me to add them in if I need them, only needing to cut away the drywall. Go ahead, you can say it now... "We told ya so". Yeah, yeah.

:hsd:

List of currently owned equipment:
Denon X1100W
Xbox One
Wii
Klipsch Reference RF-62 II (LCR)
Klipsch S-10 (Surrounds)
Dayton B652's (Front heights, for now)
TubaHT (I might build another one later)
Behringer NU1000DSP Sub Amp
Epson 8500UB (traded it for the Panny I won, hopefully no hard feelings from HTS)
DIY 46x108 (117.5" diag.) 2.35:1 AT Screen
 
#154 ·
"I'll be taking final pictures with my canon once the rooms done."

Done? There is no such thing in the HT hobby. :)
 
#156 ·


Yup, I pulled the ultimate carnal sin of the HT world. I hooked up the PJ! The screen is sitting on a Klipsch box! I still have to touch up paint the trim, build and install the false wall panels, mount the screen, vacuum and clean the room and calibrate using Audyessey and mess with the Behringer DSP settings for the sub. I'm enjoying this movie too much! :D I'll be taking much better pictures of the entire room within the next few weeks as I button up those remaining items.
 
#158 ·
Got my AVR back from the repair shop today so I'll be hooking it back up, rerunning Audyessey and start messing around with the settings and adjusting my sub amp this weekend. I'll clean up and take some good shots with my good camera. I still haven't finished the false wall panels but I'm hoping to work on those a little on Sunday. I've got all the materials just not much time.
 
#159 ·
I've been too busy to get back into the HT to finish up. We've watched a few movies already! I've noticed a null at my MLP and will need to take measurements to confirm it. It's all by ear but when I move to another seat the bass fills back in. I'm wondering if the MLP is within the "no-no" zone for bass nulls within my room. I need to pick up a mic so I can run REW. Also, my surrounds don't seem to be placed far enough back from the MLP as the effects don't sound like they're behind me. I plan on adding some rear surrounds to see if that'll help. I've got front heights hooked up and although they add a small amount of effects to movies, I'm thinking rear surrounds would be better in my room.
 
#161 ·
Took some pics using my phone so you guys can see where I'm at thus far. Still have some touch up painting to do, one more coat on the door, put up the glow stars, finish and hang the false wall panels and add one more layer of milliskin spandex on the screen.



















Todd; I've run Audyssey and have an iNuke NU1000DSP to EQ my sub. I haven't touched any of the settings on the amp yet but I've set the XO on the AVR to 80Hz and setting all the speakers to small.
 
#163 ·
I need to get a mic first! Also, I don't have many options with sub placement... I built a 24" wide x 36" deep x 36" tall subwoofer! I've got about 40" of floor space between the false wall and the front wall and can only place it between the left and center or between the right and center. The only other options I have is to rotate it. And don't even say to pull it off the sand-filled stage! There's no way this monster is coming out of hiding behind the false-wall!
 
#165 ·
I've been messing around with the PEQ in the iNuke and have gotten the null marginally handled at the MLP and it's much more tactful and robust than it was before. I boosted 20Hz and 30Hz by 3dB's and put my LCR's XO at 60Hz. It's much more blended now and my mains can handle it. My sub doesn't sound good above 60Hz so this worked out well for now. I've adjusted the gains properly so I'm no longer clipping the signal.

My next steps are to finish the false wall panels, treat the entire front wall (behind the LCR/sub) with linacoustic and finally install the insulation board inside the acoustic panel posters. I also need to add an uplight being the rear seats to shine on the Avenger's poster. And I still haven't finished the AV closet and the family room so those are next on the list to finish. Since it's summer now, those projects won't happen until fall when it gets cold out. For now, we're enjoying the HT as is.

I plan on picking up a mic soon so that I can properly calibrate my system. The PJ is calibrated using the Disney WOW disc and it looks incredible. The only issue is that since I built a 2.35:1 screen and the PJ doesn't have automatic zoom, I have to manually zoom and adjust the picture when switching from 2.35:1 and 16:9. I wish I didn't have to sell the AE4000 that I won in the HTS contest but funds were tight back then. I picked up an 8500ub for a great price but wish I had found another 4000 instead.