Are you sure you are using the correct OEM lamp? Are you using the part number from the lamp or from the side of the set or using the model number to order the lamp? Who is the supplier?

The most common problem is using the wrong or poor quality replacement lamps. Ballasts are certainly a possibility.

 

Certainly getting the right lamp was a big concern. I used the number on a sticker on the back of the TV and also made sure that the lamp had the TV model in the compatibility list when I bought it. I received an Osram lamp. I bought it from Bulb Solutions Inc in Illinois, via the internet. Is there anything else I could do to ensure that I am buying the correct lamp? Unfortunately I don't have the original lamp any more!

 

Osram lamp have a short lifespan would stick with phillips. Its sucks these lamps are so expensive
I can dlp owners getting frustrated after the third lamp replacement. And selling the dlp or tossing in the trash. Wish lamps were in the 50 dollar range

 

My experience differs on Osram vs Philips. Both seem to last well when matched with the right ballast that is working properly. Some of them are interchangeable between brands, with similar results. Overall, I have seen more consistent results from Osram, as Philips had some issues with some of the lamps supplied in some of the earlier DLP sets.

The key is getting the right lamp and that is not a trivial task sometimes. I would generally use what came out of the set. Regardless, make sure that it is really a Philips or Osram lamp and not a remanufacture or a cheap copy.

Current retail price on lamps for the Mits DLP RP sets are $100 and many replacements can be found for not much more than that for older models. Some are more, projector lamps are more.

When in doubt, use a reliable supplier or get the lamp from the TV manufacturer. It may cost more but you know what you have. Check the caps in the ballast and PS if either is suspect.

 

When in doubt, use a reliable supplier or get the lamp from the TV manufacturer. It may cost more but you know what you have. Check the caps in the ballast and PS if either is suspect.

What is most common failure mode for a ballast (that still seems to work)?

Higher than spec voltage?

 

I replaced the lamp and the ballast last night and everything is working fine. Now I have to wait and see as the last lamp lasted only 90 days. I got the ballast from the official Samsung parts supplier and the lamp from Bulb Solutions as I mentioned before. I didn't see any caps that looked suspicious in the ballast board. Didn't check the PS though

 

I am having the same issues as described above....My first bulb lasted over 4 years, however I have gone through 3 replacement bulbs (2-lasted one month a piece, the last one almost 3 months). Just checking to see if the ballast seemed to fix the problem before I purchase it and another bulb. Any other advice or things to look for?

 

Getting the right replacement is not a matter of just matching the wattage and the brand. YOu need to buy from a reputable supplier that has their own cross reference and experience. Lamps are now like the convergence ICs were a few years ago, with lots of suppliers who don't know enough about what they are selling or are not careful to not buy cheap counterfeits.

There is a lamp code on the side of your set. Get a replacement that is known to work for that part number that is the proper Philips or Osram replacement and leave the setting where it was from the factory. The brand in the service menu relates to specific parameters for the lamps that they used at the time, not every lamp from these manufacturers. Unfortuanately the details are not available for the lamp specs like start voltage most of the time. Just use a reputable supplier like B&D or Acme.