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Hi! I think they are pretty close to the same under the hood from what I understand (someone can correct me on that). If you love your ep-2500, the ep4000 should give you the same pleasure...
Behringer EP4000 - Pics - Fan Mod - ETC
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if these ever go bad on me ill be picking up a pair of EP-4000... I RUN MINES AT 3/4 ALMOST FULL BLAST ALL NIGHT LONG WITHOUT CLIPPING......THESE AMPS ARE THE BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK....
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I agree, lots of power for the price!
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Hey OP here - sorry I haven't replied for awhile - I have not been receiving updates to posts that have been made to this thread - ANYWAY - the EP4000 and EP2500 seem to be exactly the same to me (I own 2 ep2500 and 2 ep4000) - if your EP2500 dies (which I doubt it will unless you absolutely torture it) you will find the EP4000 is every bit as good although I would not say it is any better/different than the EP2500 I think Behringer simply renamed the EP2500 to the EP4000 and changed the power rating to "max output" ratings which do not mean much. I have noticed the EP4000 seems to have been bumped up in price since I purchased mine from Zzounds.com. I would seriously recommend anyone who wants an EP4000 to call zzounds LIVE and talk to a rep - you would be surprised how much they will come down from website prices over the phone. Zzounds even further reduced my DCX2496 over the phone with hardly any pushback. Worth a call to a live operator.....I am not spamming zzounds in this post - just want others to know how decent they were to deal with for me personally and encourage you guys to pick up the phone and call them before you commit to anything. No matter what I am still thrilled with my Europower amps and even created a line of Behringer power amp tshirts I sell on my own website since I am such a satisfied customer! Have no fear - this is one Behringer product you will be thrilled with.
Hi all, just bought a new EPX4000. have not hooked it up yet...but what a horible fan noise they have.
Did also some research, my original fans are from Bi-Sonic, 4000 rpm, 40.9 DB-A (way too loud), air flow 55.53 CFM. the best replacement fan I could find is the P9739-ND from Digi-Key, it has less air outpout but should do the trick at 24 CFM with only 21 DB-A, 1900 rpm and is 24 volt. The ones from SVC.com are for computer and are only 8-14 volts (they have less noise but have the wrong voltage). thanks all for this great site.
Did also some research, my original fans are from Bi-Sonic, 4000 rpm, 40.9 DB-A (way too loud), air flow 55.53 CFM. the best replacement fan I could find is the P9739-ND from Digi-Key, it has less air outpout but should do the trick at 24 CFM with only 21 DB-A, 1900 rpm and is 24 volt. The ones from SVC.com are for computer and are only 8-14 volts (they have less noise but have the wrong voltage). thanks all for this great site.
If you hadn't seen other thread on EXP4000 fan mod go with these from Digikey. I've been running them for a while and they're just right. Good airflow, low noise
NMB Technologies 3110SB-05W-B40-E00
36 CFM
26 db (you can hear them running, but not obtrusive at all)
60 mA
NMB Technologies 3110SB-05W-B40-E00
36 CFM
26 db (you can hear them running, but not obtrusive at all)
60 mA
thanks RLouis.
i did order the P9739-ND from Digi-Key after all. i took sound level measurements before i changed them, the originals were 69 dbs from 4" away at half speed (13 volts to the fans). the new replacement fans are so noiseless, you have to put your hear right against it to hear them. i could not get a decent level of them due to ambient noise in the house, but let me tell you it's night and day! i recommend this one 100% to anyone who wants a silent fan. at $9.28 plus shipping/taxes, they are worth it.:T
i did order the P9739-ND from Digi-Key after all. i took sound level measurements before i changed them, the originals were 69 dbs from 4" away at half speed (13 volts to the fans). the new replacement fans are so noiseless, you have to put your hear right against it to hear them. i could not get a decent level of them due to ambient noise in the house, but let me tell you it's night and day! i recommend this one 100% to anyone who wants a silent fan. at $9.28 plus shipping/taxes, they are worth it.:T
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Re: Behringer EP4000 - Naked Pics - Fan Mod - ETC
you say pro-amps are a good value,and im not doubting you.what do you,and others anyone who wants to answer.think about using one for the mains?not just to drive subs.
Re: Behringer EP4000 - Naked Pics - Fan Mod - ETC
There's an extraordinary demand placed on amplification to accurately track such high peak-to-average level signals. I'm convinced that signal clipping of this peak energy can occur in many scenarios, and at lower average playback levels, than many enthusiasts think. Possessing an extra 3dB-6dB in capability with amps of double and quadruple the power of one's existing amplifier, certainly helps
Having a huge amount of extra power isn't only beneficial for subwoofers, and yes, many of these high value pro amps are suitable for mains usage. A caveat however; with significant power comes significant responsibility. I know, how cliché, but true nonetheless. Powering LCR loudspeakers with amplifiers of 200%, 300%, up to 400%, is perfectly fine as long as prudence is exercised. A speaker can absorb huge amounts of power for brief periods of time,... certainly the short periods that encompass the momentary peaks that accompany the above mentioned peak energy.
By actively listening for the onset of driver non-linearity and distress, one can discover and learn to easily avoid any of the typical thermally related failures that can be encountered with a over-powering scenario. At the audible onset of thermal compression, clear signs of a less life-like, less clear, with subtle changes spectrally ... whereby the range handled by one driver in a speaker compresses first, thus diminishing the output within that driver's range. Perhaps a "thickening", or less "snap" could be detected. These terms are subjective, for sure, but they do describe my perception of what I've experienced with regard to the active listening for compression onset.
My experimentation was prompted by both my own interest, and from some posts by Tom Danley on the subject. I experimented with it, and subsequently I'm a big fan of what many would consider overkill headoom. I prefer a system approach, with enormous amounts of power, pro drivers, distributed-multiple subs. The acoustic load is spread over a lot of drivers, each backed by a lot of power, operated well within their linear envelope. When the big snare hits, or the shotgun blasts and explosions occur, the peak headroom is there to accurately track the complex transient peak energy, .... as needed.
I've found that the added realism and clarity is wonderfully enjoyable, .... adding a degree of lifelike naturalness that's otherwise unattainable with realistic playback levels. No harshness, no cringe factor, regardless of level. Currently, my primary system, the family room HT, consists of 16.8kw plus
, in a quite modest room.:hsd:
Thanks and good luck
I'm not currently, however I've used an EP4000 for mains usage, ...without issue. Both hi rez SACD, and BluRay playback were fine. With that much power available, the big high energy, high crest factor transients associated with gunshots, drum whacks, etc, were handled in a manner noticeably better.
There's an extraordinary demand placed on amplification to accurately track such high peak-to-average level signals. I'm convinced that signal clipping of this peak energy can occur in many scenarios, and at lower average playback levels, than many enthusiasts think. Possessing an extra 3dB-6dB in capability with amps of double and quadruple the power of one's existing amplifier, certainly helps
Having a huge amount of extra power isn't only beneficial for subwoofers, and yes, many of these high value pro amps are suitable for mains usage. A caveat however; with significant power comes significant responsibility. I know, how cliché, but true nonetheless. Powering LCR loudspeakers with amplifiers of 200%, 300%, up to 400%, is perfectly fine as long as prudence is exercised. A speaker can absorb huge amounts of power for brief periods of time,... certainly the short periods that encompass the momentary peaks that accompany the above mentioned peak energy.
By actively listening for the onset of driver non-linearity and distress, one can discover and learn to easily avoid any of the typical thermally related failures that can be encountered with a over-powering scenario. At the audible onset of thermal compression, clear signs of a less life-like, less clear, with subtle changes spectrally ... whereby the range handled by one driver in a speaker compresses first, thus diminishing the output within that driver's range. Perhaps a "thickening", or less "snap" could be detected. These terms are subjective, for sure, but they do describe my perception of what I've experienced with regard to the active listening for compression onset.
My experimentation was prompted by both my own interest, and from some posts by Tom Danley on the subject. I experimented with it, and subsequently I'm a big fan of what many would consider overkill headoom. I prefer a system approach, with enormous amounts of power, pro drivers, distributed-multiple subs. The acoustic load is spread over a lot of drivers, each backed by a lot of power, operated well within their linear envelope. When the big snare hits, or the shotgun blasts and explosions occur, the peak headroom is there to accurately track the complex transient peak energy, .... as needed.
I've found that the added realism and clarity is wonderfully enjoyable, .... adding a degree of lifelike naturalness that's otherwise unattainable with realistic playback levels. No harshness, no cringe factor, regardless of level. Currently, my primary system, the family room HT, consists of 16.8kw plus
, in a quite modest room.:hsd: Thanks and good luck
You're welcome.thanks for your reply.
One easy, quick, and relatively cheap step toward better sound, is relieving one's AVR output channels for at least two or all three LCR channels. One can buy an inexpensive pro type amp or two and use the remaining onboard channels for the surrounds. It's been quite well documented how an AVR struggles to maintain simultaneous output across all channels. All those amp channels can drain a single power supply in a heartbeat, and any step to alleviate those issues is a worthwhile one.
Thanks
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85 Posts
I have a couple of questions for the fan modders here. First some info... I have an EP4000 in an open rack with plenty of airflow. I live at in the mountains at an altitude of 8500 feet, so cooling fans do not move as much air as they are rated for. I tried the quiet replacement fan from Digikey but it did not move enough air to keep the amp from getting too hot. Since then I’ve gone back to the OEM fan which does keep the EP4000 cool enough but is way too loud.
Could I go to a larger 24 volt, 120mm low rpm fan and mount it to the outside of the case with a fan adaptor? This would involve removing the OEM fan and fabricating a duct extension to keep the airflow efficient through the heat sinks.
Also, would the added current draw from the larger fan overload the circuit board that supplies the power to the fan?
I did think about the suggestion (from another thread) of stacking two 12 volt quiet fans but I don’t think you’d get more airflow than the fans are individually rated for and you might run into some turbulance issues.
Any thoughts would be appreciated since the EP4000 performs fantastically but way too loud. If I can’t find a solution I’ll need to replace the amp with something quieter and more expensive.
Could I go to a larger 24 volt, 120mm low rpm fan and mount it to the outside of the case with a fan adaptor? This would involve removing the OEM fan and fabricating a duct extension to keep the airflow efficient through the heat sinks.
Also, would the added current draw from the larger fan overload the circuit board that supplies the power to the fan?
I did think about the suggestion (from another thread) of stacking two 12 volt quiet fans but I don’t think you’d get more airflow than the fans are individually rated for and you might run into some turbulance issues.
Any thoughts would be appreciated since the EP4000 performs fantastically but way too loud. If I can’t find a solution I’ll need to replace the amp with something quieter and more expensive.
The fan listed is out of stock, but Digi Key listed this as a replacement, which has lower db and more CFM. I ordered 2 of these for my EP4000s.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3110SB-05W-B20-E00/P14751-ND/2615564
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3110SB-05W-B20-E00/P14751-ND/2615564
I was thinking of doing this mod but my subs are setup to run in 2ohm stereo. I rarely listen to music very loud, mostly watching movies at -10. Does the EP4000 have any kind of thermal protection? I'm afraid of burning it up with a lower CFM fan...
I was looking at this fan
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ME80252V2-000U-A99/259-1507-ND/2021135
or this one
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3110SB-05W-B50-E00/P14753-ND/2615566
I was looking at this fan
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ME80252V2-000U-A99/259-1507-ND/2021135
or this one
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3110SB-05W-B50-E00/P14753-ND/2615566
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94 Posts
Hey guys. Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I have a question.
I am planning on doing the fan mod to my EP4000. Difference is, I live in Australia. Are the boards all the same requiring 24v fans, or do I need something else here in Oz? What are the parameters for the required fan?
I am planning on doing the fan mod to my EP4000. Difference is, I live in Australia. Are the boards all the same requiring 24v fans, or do I need something else here in Oz? What are the parameters for the required fan?
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5 Posts
The behringer fan situation will be the same in Aussie Land. 24 volt fan runs off a 24 volt DC supply on the board. The power supply is actually exactly the same except the Transformer is wired in series for the higher voltage, but again nothing to do with the fans.
One overlooked method is to just slow down the fan and hence the noise with a Lm 2596 hooked up between the fan and the DC supply. Then you have a screw on the lm 2596 to adjust the voltage down closer to the starting voltage of the fan, and hence decrease noise and speed. Available from china for 5 bucks or less. Check ebay.
One overlooked method is to just slow down the fan and hence the noise with a Lm 2596 hooked up between the fan and the DC supply. Then you have a screw on the lm 2596 to adjust the voltage down closer to the starting voltage of the fan, and hence decrease noise and speed. Available from china for 5 bucks or less. Check ebay.
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